Just got my A/C bypass done and was hoping that this would let me get her started but no.
Recent Alternatir replacement, recent starter replacement (was under warranty from 8 months ago, replaced regulator (thing on the fender) and both terminal wires. Thought I had her licked (even started after sitting in the cold Baltimore airport for 3 days, 2 weeks ago) but the other day she wouldn't start, after a short trip 5 or 6 miles, i got a jump, then a couple days later she wouldn't start in the morning, I got a jump and let her run while I was working inside, forgot it was running and went out to discover what I think was my none working air compressor smoking away. I think that's what it was cause it would pitch a fit, when I moved the A/C lever from off to any setting. I left it off and a couple days later noise (that I supect was the Air Comp) started to be consistant, horrible grinding metal. Then she would'nt start, I thought maybe the clutch thing had totally seized and elected to by pass A/C as stated. anyway..any ideas? ? I'm begining to think that the A/C clutch burning up is unrelated to the starting problem, but I don't know, It seems like the starter again (no crank at all, even with Jump start). what could be making this thing need a third starter in under 2 years?

H E L P !!! This is my work truck and I'm grounded with out it, guess I'll get her towed tommorow. ANY IDEAS???

 

Take resistance measurements with an oHmmeter on the ground wire in two different places, one lead at the battery and one lead at the other end on the block and then move the block lead to the clamp on the passenger side frame rail BELOW THE BATTERY. Hand trace the battery and you'll see a clamp on the cable without insulation at the clamp. Corrosion gets in here and eats it's way outward.

Also check both POSITIVE cables. Anything other than a few oHms and it's time to replace them. Use 2/0 size cables.

One other thing. With the engine stone cold from overnight sitting, and the battery charged before sitting overnight, feel the alternator casing. If the case is warm REPLACE the ALTERNATOR. 1 or more of the diodes have shorted and allowing current thru the field windings. This will drain the battery and give you a partial charge condition in which you'll show almost full voltage on the gauge but NO IDIOT LIGHT when running!


Hope this helps.
Larry

 

can I use a regular vaoltage reader, and when you say one lead at the battery, do you mean on red post, and where on the block anyhwere?? not sure where you mean? sorry but....

 

Put one lead from the oHm meter on the BLACK (GROUND) wire at the battery and the other oHmmeter lead at the other end of the "GROUND WIRE". Also move the block meter lead to the frame rail where the clamp is 1/2way down the cable.

 

Turns out the genius's at Meineke Moters in Ephrata Pa. did such a poor job (for $800+ dollars) "fixing my clutch" That when I was depressing clutch enough to actually start the truck, she was NOT truley out of gear, and the wear on the starter (actually 3 starters) was enough to ruin them. I'm no expert, and I'm not sure this is even possible. But, ever since, I put it in to neutral before I crank it, and so far no more staters, and she's doesn't stain as much as before during start up.

 

$0.02

Meineke, Midas, Poop Boys, Brake King-- I never had very good results from these joints-- but since they're usually franchises, there will be some good and some bad, depending on how the owner chooses to run his/her business.. But as a general rule-of-thumb where I live, I use a local garage for things I can't or don't feel like dealing with.

 

good advice.

thanks for the update on your starter issue from 2005.