Wont warm up
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 257
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From: Wildwood
Wont warm up
Heres a good one. 91 3.0 runs good but takes a while to warm up. I replaced the thermostat and flushed the system with new antifreeze and it still seems to take too long to get warm. It will go to the first line on the gauge and nothing more. I seem to have decent heat from the vents but not as it should be. How do I check the fan clutch? It spins ok with a little drag when cold. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 718
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
If the fan clutch is failing try this with a cold engine it should turn with minimum resistance but it shouldn't freewheel (continue turning after you push it).
From what you said it seems to be fine.
Are you sure you installed the thermostat in the right direction? Also check to make sure its not sticking or opening too early.
From what you said it seems to be fine.
Are you sure you installed the thermostat in the right direction? Also check to make sure its not sticking or opening too early.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
It's the temperature sender switch. I have always thought my engine runs too cold until I replaced that switch. You can take it out and dunk it in boiling water while measuring the resistance. It should be about 27-28 ohms in boiling water. I suspect yours would read much higher than that, perhaps 100 ohms or so like mine did.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Concordia, MO
What temp thermostat do you have installed? In the colder climates, you'll find that many people install a thermostat that opens at a higher temp. The effect is that the engine warms up to a higher temp before the thermostat opens, and this translates to warmer air coming from the heater. I have a 192 degree thermostat installed in my 93 4.0. The coolant temp displayed when fully warmed up is right in the middle of the range.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 14,413
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
I had the same problem in my truck. It would only go up to the bottom of normal. I changed out the sender and no change. So, I went and bought a Motorcraft thermostat, always sits in the middle now. I have heard NAPA thermostats are not too good but I do not have first hand experience with them. Good luck.
-Matt
-Matt
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: cincinnati hamilton
since i seem to be in the same boat i thought i'd ask...where is the temperature sending unit? i replaced my thermostat last year. only warm again. what makes the thermostat go bad? too much back pressure from a clogging heater core? just wondering 
....i don't really want to change a thermostat in the driveway in this weather unless i have to.....bbbrrrr..4 degrees in ohio....rick
....i don't really want to change a thermostat in the driveway in this weather unless i have to.....bbbrrrr..4 degrees in ohio....rick
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Wildwood
I think it is a junk thermostat from NAPA. I checked the temp with a handheld infrared laser temp deal and it only showed 152*(upper hose) after idling for about 20 minutes. Everything points to a bum thermostat. I am going to try a motorcraft this weekend and see what happens. I will post results.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
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While you're under the hood, and the engine is at normal operating temperature, check the two hoses going to and from the heater core. (At the firewall on the passenger side.) Both hoses should be same temperature (hot, ideally) to the touch. If one is noticeably cooler, your core may be plugged and needs backflushed to restore operation.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Just out of curisoity are the heater core hoses the two hoses that run over the alt on the passenger side on my 96 3.0?
I think they are because there are two next to each other one to enter the core and one to leave but I'm not sure.
If they are it was such a good idea for Ford to run these hot hoses and let them lay directly on top of the alt its got enough heat conducting from the engine to worry about
.
Well just like their put the cat next to the tranny bellhousing so it bakes the seal idea.
I gotta say I love the van but not the stupid design.
I think they are because there are two next to each other one to enter the core and one to leave but I'm not sure.
If they are it was such a good idea for Ford to run these hot hoses and let them lay directly on top of the alt its got enough heat conducting from the engine to worry about
.Well just like their put the cat next to the tranny bellhousing so it bakes the seal idea.
I gotta say I love the van but not the stupid design.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jan 19, 2005 at 11:31 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Wildwood
Well,I put in a motorcraft thermostat and it seems to be a little bit better but not enough to say that was it. It still sits at the line below the n in normal. It initially went to the n and then when the stat opened,it went down a line. Both heater hoses are the same temp. I still need to check the sender. If all else fails, I am going to block off a section of radiator and see where that gets me.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 586
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From: Tottenham Ontario Canada
Machman: Is this warm-up problem new or did you experience the same thing last winter?
I have a 95 3.0L & mine behaves similar, as it has every winter I have had it. In my case I flushed the cooling system (two or three time), replaced the 'stat (twice), rad cap, water pump, the hose to the overflow tank, various other hoses...
It still behaves the same: gets warm, but not hot enough for the computer to get into "closed loop", so the gas mileage bites. I have come to the conclusion that this van just does not produce a lot of heat. The best investment I made last year was a "winter front" - one of those quilted vinyl grill covers. By restricting the air flow through the rad, the engine gets fully up to temperature (and stays steady), the heater blows hot, and the gas mileage is comparable to summer.
You can get the same result with a piece of cardboard, but that tends to get soggy if you get a lot of wet snow.
Good luck with your troubleshooting.
Cheers,
Eric
I have a 95 3.0L & mine behaves similar, as it has every winter I have had it. In my case I flushed the cooling system (two or three time), replaced the 'stat (twice), rad cap, water pump, the hose to the overflow tank, various other hoses...
It still behaves the same: gets warm, but not hot enough for the computer to get into "closed loop", so the gas mileage bites. I have come to the conclusion that this van just does not produce a lot of heat. The best investment I made last year was a "winter front" - one of those quilted vinyl grill covers. By restricting the air flow through the rad, the engine gets fully up to temperature (and stays steady), the heater blows hot, and the gas mileage is comparable to summer.
You can get the same result with a piece of cardboard, but that tends to get soggy if you get a lot of wet snow.
Good luck with your troubleshooting.
Cheers,
Eric
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Wildwood
The motorcraft thermostat did seem to make a difference. I went on a long drive last night and the temp was right between the n and the o and when it opened, the needle would drop a line or two and then gradually come back. The wife tells me it always ran cool in the winter, so maybe I am just over analyzing this temp thing. I think I am going to block off part of the radiator for the winter and let it go. There definately was a change between the motorcraft and the napa parts though.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 84
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
Well it may suck that they dont heat up fast enough in the cold of winter, but I am happier knowing that they run cooler, moreso if i owned a 4.0L because they overheat and the heads seem to warp, i have gotten away with murder on my 3.0, my thermostat failed and by the time i noticed the temperature the needle on the guage was right as hot as it goes, and it was running strange.. lol i wrapped a thick towel around the rad cap and took it off and got the heck outta the way. It puked out every last drop of coolant and i swear if the hood wasnt blocking it it woulda shot 20 feet in the air. If only they made the 4.0's cast Iron block with Cast Iron heads like the 3.0 instead of Aluminum then they would really be a good motor. I really cant say anything good about 3.8's oh well at least they dont come in aerostars. :P