passenger side of the front axle (96 f1504x4). i cant seem to get the shaft out of the differential. the slip is out but the one in the differential isnt. is there anything holding that in there? i dont see anything. im trying to change the u joints on the front right side. help appreciated

 

if i'm not mistaken there is a "c" lock that hold's the stub axle in the differential.

 

xltlariat87 is right. To actually remove the shaft you have to remove the front diff and then the C-clip.
If you have access to a good u-joint press the center u-joint can be replaced without removing the inner axle. It's not real easy and not recommended but can be done.

 

its easy enough to take the diff off once your that far, plus it lets you check you gears, change the oil, and toss in two new axle seals just because. i would do it that way if i had to do mine again. instead i didnt do the middle one, because it wasnt loose but I probly should have.

 

ahhhman..i already got the other side done. Id hate to back track. im assuming both axles have to be out in order to get to it? errr drop it? ive never worked on the frontend of a truck before so how involved would getting to this c clip b?


the u joint seems to still be in good working order. but the one close to the spidle was shot(i think i found that clankin noise) thanks for the help and anymore help is much appreciated

Gettin those c clips out are tricky even when the shafts are out. im definately not goin to try it when theyre connected to the diff.

 

rotate the stub axle shaft assembly until open side of the axle to side gear snap ring is exposed. Remove snap ring from stub axle shaft and pull stub axle shaft out of carrier.

 

If the center u-joint still feels good I would just leave it alone.

 

I did the same thing as Racerguy said to do, when i got did mine i did the drivers side first, then realized it, and seeing how it felt tight i just left it alone.

 

i left it as is. i tryed 4by out just a few minutes ago and all is well. 4lo with the pipes cackling is awsome

After ball joints, bearings, u joints, and premium warn hubs i thought that would tighten up the steering wheel. but its not much better than before. Im hoping the alighnment fixes it. not that i thought it was gonna go straight down the road without touching the wheel or anythig but still. i read a few post about the steering knuckle possibly having play ,any ideas on checking that?or how?

or maybe i should just see how it acts after an alighnment?

 

your stearing gear needs to be adjusted
its not hard but I dont have the torque specs off hand, I can however get them, if you would like them, you will need an inch pund dial type torque wrench thats about the only special tool reqired, thats how you adjust for the proper amount of gear lash in the box. but anyways im bored so ill go check ford tech service and grab up the procedures, if i can figure out the website.

 

Here you go, for a 1996 f-150, From Ford Tech Service,

Adjust total on center load to eliminate excessive lash between the sector and rack teeth as follows.

With the engine (6007) off, turn the steering wheel (3600) from full right stop to full left stop at least once.

Refer to Section 11-04 for proper steering wheel hub cover removal procedure.

Disconnect the steering gear sector shaft arm (3590) from the steering gear sector shaft (3575) using Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F.

Attach a newton meter (pound-inch) torque wrench to the steering wheel hub nut and determine the torque required to rotate the power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) back and forth across the center position (± 90 degrees).

Reset the meshload only if the measured torque for total on-center load is less than 1.5 Nm (13 lb-in). If reset is required, loosen the adjuster lock nut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the measured total on-center load torque is 2.0 Nm (18 lb-in). Hold the sector shaft screw in place and tighten the lock nut to 48-61 Nm (35-45 lb-ft).

Recheck torque readings and replace the steering gear sector shaft arm. Tighten the pitman arm-to-sector shaft nut 230-310 Nm (170-228 lb-ft).

Verify no binding condition in steering throughout full stop-to-stop travel. Verify customer concern is resolved.

Replace steering wheel hub cover.



The adjuster for the mesh, sticks out of the top of the box, Directly over the pitman arm (ford calls it, "steering gear sector shaft arm " above) this is a right hand thred bolt, but use some pb blaster or something on it, if you brake it you have to take the little cover off the box to replace it, its not hard but it would be a pain in the ****.

Oh and im sorry I lied, you also need a pitman arm puller. I forgot about that.

 

the trucks in for an alighnment today...does it need to be done before it goes in? or can i do it afterwards? thanks for looking that up by the way. is there anywhere i can see a visual aid on that? i already got the pitman puller and the trq wrench

 

i would do it before, to insure that your wheel is straight, if they align it and the wheel is in the slopy part, when you tighten the box, your wheel may be crooked.

 

i just got my truck back form the shop...i guess the toe was way off. it musta been most of my problem cuz it feels real solid now(first time ever). so im gonna bypass the gear box for now. thanks for your time

 

yeah, not a problem, im sure it will serve for others to use as well, i know for a fact i need to adjust my steering gear, put new springs in it and get the alignment done,

But glad to hear you got it figured out, its always a good thing.