Pillar Pods- relay boxes?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Rep. of Texas
Pillar Pods- relay boxes?
I ordered the pillar pod finally (boost, tranny, pyro). The boost is mechanical, but the other two are electric. They have 2 foot wires that go from teh pod to a box, then the pyro lead wire and the trans temp lead wires come out from there.
So, my question is, where is the recomended mounting point for the relay boxes? I would like them high in the cab, but I dont know if the tranny lead wire will reach. I often flood my cab up to the bottom of the seats, so the higher the better. (Im trying to stay out of the water, but its so tempting).
So, my question is, where is the recomended mounting point for the relay boxes? I would like them high in the cab, but I dont know if the tranny lead wire will reach. I often flood my cab up to the bottom of the seats, so the higher the better. (Im trying to stay out of the water, but its so tempting).
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I have mine up under the dash close to the same height as the speedo. I did not have the tranny temp guage though. I put my thermocouple in the drivers side manifold right above the exhaust connection. The leadwire out of the box was long enough to reach the thermocouple with lots of room to spare.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I took the dash off to mount the pod and get the wires to it. It is still a pain to route the wires under the dash though. I went through the firewall beside the speedo cable to keep the wires clear of the clutch and brake linkage under the dash. I think if I were doing it again I would start out by removing the seat.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Rep. of Texas
Yeah, I started removing the displays region of the dash, but broke it. It has 4 of those expanding pins like this -<> but the plastic dried out and didnt collapse, so the mounts snapped. Removing the whole dash is a pain.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I did not take the insturment panel out. I removed the top and then worked up from the botom. If I would have removed the insturment portion it may have been easier on my back though. On my 86 the dash vent air duct is right behind the insturments so I do not think that would really have helped me any though as I now think about it.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Rep. of Texas
Taking the dash off really sucks...taken out 23 bolts and its still on, wiggles, but still on. Some of the bolts are sort of covered. One is covered by the metal of the cab right by the drivers side door, about 1.25' up from the floor. There is only a 3/8" gap to reach it too.
Was yours like this Dave? Any suggestions?
Was yours like this Dave? Any suggestions?
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 78
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From: Norfolk, VA
don't know if it helps you any at this point, but check out this pic: http:///showphoto.php?photo=22098&pa...t=1&thecat=500
thank PLC7.3 click on the pic to enlarge it, btw.
thank PLC7.3 click on the pic to enlarge it, btw.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Rep. of Texas
My problems are the right/left cowl side screws. I cant get to them. The gap is 1/4"-3/8" and I cant reach it because it is set back in 1/2" (partially covered by the dash itself) to the side and 3/4" in deep.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I see what you are up against when I looked at the picture soulpatchfr posted. Your dash is way different than mine. I basicly have a metal dash frame that has panels over it to make the dash. Looks like you have to pull the entire thing or nothing.
When mine comes out it is about 15 pieces that each covers a small part of the metal frame. The first one out is the dash top pad which is the only piece that is of any size at all. There were some screws on the side of mine that were easier to remove after I pulled the kick panel covers off under the dash. Looking at the picture I do not know if that will help you or not.
When mine comes out it is about 15 pieces that each covers a small part of the metal frame. The first one out is the dash top pad which is the only piece that is of any size at all. There were some screws on the side of mine that were easier to remove after I pulled the kick panel covers off under the dash. Looking at the picture I do not know if that will help you or not.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,417
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From: Braham MN
The boxes SHOULD, be sealed, not sure I haven't looked at mine in awhile,I would guess that they are sealed to protect the boards from moisture in the air anyway. I mounted mine on the HUGE aluminum bracing up under the dash, four self tapping screwes and they were done, it will be close but I would think that if you didn't flood it past the top of the seat you should be ok. The important thing is that if you do mount them here, silicone the splices, and the connection points where the wires are clamped down on the boxes, make it all water proof.
I had to lengthen my tranny temp sensor, cuz I mounted my sensor right before the cooler, since there was already rubber line there is was simple, just cut the two wires that ran to it, used the coresponding color and added about 10 feet to it, real easy.
Diesel Rod
I had to lengthen my tranny temp sensor, cuz I mounted my sensor right before the cooler, since there was already rubber line there is was simple, just cut the two wires that ran to it, used the coresponding color and added about 10 feet to it, real easy.
Diesel Rod