Fender repair
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 3
Fender repair
I am needing to weld a patch piece of metal in the front fender of my 67 Fairlane. The hole is about 2.5 x 2.5 in. I am wondering what guage and type of metal to use. Also what is the best way to cut the hole. It better round or square. There is a slight curveature on the fender where the hole is. Is the best way to cut the piece so it fits inside the hole and just but weld it in useing tack welds all the way around until they meet.? Thanks alot I would appreciate any tips on this subject. I am very new at this...
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
You can usually use whatever guage the fender already is. I usually try to cut out a small section and take it with me so they can measure it.
As far as the panel goes, you can cut it out with a jigsaw or a reciprocating (demolition) saw. I find that bimetal blades work best.
Square sections are easier to cut out of sheetmetal but it's really up to you.
I like to lay the patch panel (if already preformed/stamped) over the area and outline it. Then cut out the damaged portion of the panel with out going beyond the outline.
Cut out only what you need to because the patch can be trimmed down to fit easy enough.
When tacking it in, hold the patch surface flush to the panel and place a couple of quick tacks to hold it. Now adjust the fit of the patch nad tack as you go.
Once the entire patch is tacked in, every couple of inches or so, you can now go back and drop some 1/8" long beads between tacks.
Just be careful to move around the panel, alternating the heat so you do not warp the entire area. If nothing else, do a couple of beads on each side and walk away until they cool.
Once the welding is done, grind off the welds with some 80 grit flap discs but stop just short of the surface. Now you can sand the welds smooth with some 120 grit flap disc. This will look much better than a grinding wheel.
If your using a flat piece to patch the hole, you can actuall crown/curve/shape the material with common household items. 1st try it with your hands over your knee. For tighter radiuses, you can clamp a piece of round stock to a workbench and gently hammer the panel over it. For flanges, use a lenght of 2" angle iron and a flat faced hammer.
As far as the panel goes, you can cut it out with a jigsaw or a reciprocating (demolition) saw. I find that bimetal blades work best.
Square sections are easier to cut out of sheetmetal but it's really up to you.
I like to lay the patch panel (if already preformed/stamped) over the area and outline it. Then cut out the damaged portion of the panel with out going beyond the outline.
Cut out only what you need to because the patch can be trimmed down to fit easy enough.
When tacking it in, hold the patch surface flush to the panel and place a couple of quick tacks to hold it. Now adjust the fit of the patch nad tack as you go.
Once the entire patch is tacked in, every couple of inches or so, you can now go back and drop some 1/8" long beads between tacks.
Just be careful to move around the panel, alternating the heat so you do not warp the entire area. If nothing else, do a couple of beads on each side and walk away until they cool.
Once the welding is done, grind off the welds with some 80 grit flap discs but stop just short of the surface. Now you can sand the welds smooth with some 120 grit flap disc. This will look much better than a grinding wheel.
If your using a flat piece to patch the hole, you can actuall crown/curve/shape the material with common household items. 1st try it with your hands over your knee. For tighter radiuses, you can clamp a piece of round stock to a workbench and gently hammer the panel over it. For flanges, use a lenght of 2" angle iron and a flat faced hammer.
