rear air-locker
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26
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From: Valley/Mountain Region
rear air-locker
Howdy folks, BigTex been livin’ in Bolivia, SA for the last five...damn almost six years, an’ lovin’ it.
The question is :
I want to put on a pneumatic rear differential locker
What info do I need to choose the right one (are there various types)?
What should the kit cost (in the states)?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Story if you wish to read it:
I, ‘bout two years ago, bought me an american (not agentinian) 1979 F350 in-line6 300 CrewCab 2X4 Dually for about $3000. The motor and suspension were in pretty good condition; the thing had almost no use compared to it’s years. She had been sleeping in a Customs (import) car lot for about ten years, ha! (the company that originally ordered 10 trucks never picked them up) The folks who bought her before me (customs auction) had a family operated stone quarry and several outlets, all very small-time. They used my baby for small home deliveries (max 60 QQ) That’s 3 tons, man… and she holds up good! They had taken off the original bed (now lost forever) and put on a wooden utility that opens three ways; very useful. I reinforced the corners with sheet metal and put in a great tool chest with sliding drawers (custom made, baby). Here in Bolivia, they got a lot of cheap labour to make those custom wants and needs, Yeah!
So, I installed all new electrical (lines, relays, dist, cables, etc.). Still got the original alt and starter… Alts workin’ great, had her “rebobinado”; recoiled? Starter has her problems, but I’m learnin’ to deal with ‘em. And, hell, if this isn’t the simplest carb known to man. My baby does like to munch on her gasoline, though. And am I glad that she’s not a V8.
Now, I’m not particular when it comes to maintaining OEM. I didn’t like that original mechanical steering… too damn hard for this long lady. And this truck is long, and I drive in the mountains (search sometime “carretera de la muerte” that’s “highway of death”, man…. Narrow, long drop, curves and contra curves, baby. It’s beautiful and very dangerous. Fun for the weekend warrior, but man, I live here). So, I adapted a hydraulic steering system for my lady. For $150 (parts & LABOUR) got me a almost new articulated Toyota steering wheel tower, hooked up to an Izuzu power steering box. The hydraulic pump was a small mitsubishi, but she didn’t hold out (too fragil) so I wound put replacing her with an original ford hydraulic pump.
Instead of replacing the front end springs I put in some lathed aluminium 1 ¾ chocks, which raised my front end nicely and didn’t have to distemper the coils to stretch them. The Twin I-beam suspension is a beautiful ride. And believe me when I tell you it sure saves your *** from the 80% non paved roads that I drive on… most of them like corrugated tin. Now, oddly, this baby didn’t have any rear shocks (ever!)… and the previous owners had no problem since they stayed within their city limits and pretty much only went around with load (with load behind, she rides like a greyhound tour bus!). So, I said, “let’s put on some shocks”. Sounds easy, right. Well, my problem was that I needed excellent ADJUSTABLE shock absorbers and that cost less that $50. Adjustable because if I’d put 50 pounders they burst when loaded and with 150 pounders it’d still be a hard ride when unloaded. Now I’m a comfort seeking fat man, I don’t need to be getting underneath my truck everytime I gotta regulate my shocks. So, what did I do? Since I had previously put on an air compressor (Ford700 model) for my big rig air horn (lol) as well as my pneumatic torque wrench (which is the only way to take off those 8 lug nuts, baby) (also, while in country, one should always have access to compressed air for blowing air filters, filling tires, etc.). I got me some Gabriel Hi-jackers for $35 (new), and from my cab I control the amount of air pressure for my rear end shocks… hell, I’m thinkin’ about puttin’ some in to replace the ones on the front end as well.
As for the motor, I’m planning on takin’ her out and putting her in a little run-about that we have been working on. I want to put in my Ford a FD35 T Nissan 4cyl turbo diesel. That’s 130 hp compared to the ford’s original 90. It’s not a monster, but very workable
Well, that’s all good and well, but my problem is the rainy season (which is starting now) Dec-Feb, and these roads get slippery when wet. Luckily, I have my very reliable (but hard on that ***) ’79 Toyota Landcruiser wagon, ‘cuase with my Ford: you get stuck, you’re stuck - that full floating rear diff is a bitch.
Here’s the gist of my diatribe:
Excuse me for the long trip down “This Ol’truck Lane”, but if yor still awake, I’d like some input.
Thanks[/SIZE]
Thread edited by FTE
The question is :
I want to put on a pneumatic rear differential locker
What info do I need to choose the right one (are there various types)?
What should the kit cost (in the states)?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Story if you wish to read it:
I, ‘bout two years ago, bought me an american (not agentinian) 1979 F350 in-line6 300 CrewCab 2X4 Dually for about $3000. The motor and suspension were in pretty good condition; the thing had almost no use compared to it’s years. She had been sleeping in a Customs (import) car lot for about ten years, ha! (the company that originally ordered 10 trucks never picked them up) The folks who bought her before me (customs auction) had a family operated stone quarry and several outlets, all very small-time. They used my baby for small home deliveries (max 60 QQ) That’s 3 tons, man… and she holds up good! They had taken off the original bed (now lost forever) and put on a wooden utility that opens three ways; very useful. I reinforced the corners with sheet metal and put in a great tool chest with sliding drawers (custom made, baby). Here in Bolivia, they got a lot of cheap labour to make those custom wants and needs, Yeah!
So, I installed all new electrical (lines, relays, dist, cables, etc.). Still got the original alt and starter… Alts workin’ great, had her “rebobinado”; recoiled? Starter has her problems, but I’m learnin’ to deal with ‘em. And, hell, if this isn’t the simplest carb known to man. My baby does like to munch on her gasoline, though. And am I glad that she’s not a V8.
Now, I’m not particular when it comes to maintaining OEM. I didn’t like that original mechanical steering… too damn hard for this long lady. And this truck is long, and I drive in the mountains (search sometime “carretera de la muerte” that’s “highway of death”, man…. Narrow, long drop, curves and contra curves, baby. It’s beautiful and very dangerous. Fun for the weekend warrior, but man, I live here). So, I adapted a hydraulic steering system for my lady. For $150 (parts & LABOUR) got me a almost new articulated Toyota steering wheel tower, hooked up to an Izuzu power steering box. The hydraulic pump was a small mitsubishi, but she didn’t hold out (too fragil) so I wound put replacing her with an original ford hydraulic pump.
Instead of replacing the front end springs I put in some lathed aluminium 1 ¾ chocks, which raised my front end nicely and didn’t have to distemper the coils to stretch them. The Twin I-beam suspension is a beautiful ride. And believe me when I tell you it sure saves your *** from the 80% non paved roads that I drive on… most of them like corrugated tin. Now, oddly, this baby didn’t have any rear shocks (ever!)… and the previous owners had no problem since they stayed within their city limits and pretty much only went around with load (with load behind, she rides like a greyhound tour bus!). So, I said, “let’s put on some shocks”. Sounds easy, right. Well, my problem was that I needed excellent ADJUSTABLE shock absorbers and that cost less that $50. Adjustable because if I’d put 50 pounders they burst when loaded and with 150 pounders it’d still be a hard ride when unloaded. Now I’m a comfort seeking fat man, I don’t need to be getting underneath my truck everytime I gotta regulate my shocks. So, what did I do? Since I had previously put on an air compressor (Ford700 model) for my big rig air horn (lol) as well as my pneumatic torque wrench (which is the only way to take off those 8 lug nuts, baby) (also, while in country, one should always have access to compressed air for blowing air filters, filling tires, etc.). I got me some Gabriel Hi-jackers for $35 (new), and from my cab I control the amount of air pressure for my rear end shocks… hell, I’m thinkin’ about puttin’ some in to replace the ones on the front end as well.
As for the motor, I’m planning on takin’ her out and putting her in a little run-about that we have been working on. I want to put in my Ford a FD35 T Nissan 4cyl turbo diesel. That’s 130 hp compared to the ford’s original 90. It’s not a monster, but very workable
Well, that’s all good and well, but my problem is the rainy season (which is starting now) Dec-Feb, and these roads get slippery when wet. Luckily, I have my very reliable (but hard on that ***) ’79 Toyota Landcruiser wagon, ‘cuase with my Ford: you get stuck, you’re stuck - that full floating rear diff is a bitch.
Here’s the gist of my diatribe:
Excuse me for the long trip down “This Ol’truck Lane”, but if yor still awake, I’d like some input.
Thanks[/SIZE]
Thread edited by FTE
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Your post is so long it made my head hurt so I just skipped to the end. 
Go with an ARB locker. It'll probably run you right about $700 in the US, plus you'll need a compressor. If you don't have one already the ARB compressor is about $150-$200. They have a very good reputation in terms of selectable lockers. Installation of course will cose some $$ if you're not doing it yourself.
Go with an ARB locker. It'll probably run you right about $700 in the US, plus you'll need a compressor. If you don't have one already the ARB compressor is about $150-$200. They have a very good reputation in terms of selectable lockers. Installation of course will cose some $$ if you're not doing it yourself.
