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I have an 87 6.9 that I resently bought. Been through various starting problems, GP's, relay, starter, fuel switching valve, fuel filter. Now, I can barely get it started at 40*. I live in Minnesota and it's -6* right now(heated garage). Topped off oil this morning drove to work , put maybe 90miles on and it's 1qt low but, I did let it idle all day, didn't want to shut it off affraid it wouldn't start. So, I talked to a guy who owns a diesel shop here and he gave me his PLO (parking lot opinion). What he was saying is that 6.9's generally don't burn alot of oil even when there weak but, if the truck idled for long periods throughout it's life that the motor doesn't get enough temperture so your rings shrink and you get blowby, which over time can create creosote (have to check the spelling on that) on the rings which won't allow them to float or seal. So, I guess my question is there any kind of "mechanic in a can" or somthing that anyone has used to clean out that build up on the rings?
give us a little more info, Ken... are you getting fuel? getting lots of white smoke while she's trying to start?
first - hope you replaced the GP's with motorcraft (made by beru) part# zd9. any other GP has tendencies to fail in these old girls. $28 at ford - $9 at autozone, same thing. it's not unheard of for autolite's or others to fail within a week.
second - if you must let these idi's idle for extended periods, use some form of fast idle control - i have a stick. others have an actual control on the dash. somewhere about 1100rpm is ok i'm told.
"wet stacking" will occur with extended idling... don't know / remember much about that - just that it's bad. if i learn more, i'll fill in. i will add that i've let mine run for hours on end before with no ill effects, even intermittently (for hours) during hurricane isabel for 9 days... that inverter comes in handy.
third - 1qt per 100 miles is BAD. per # of hours, i don't know. you sure you're not leaking some of that?
have you done a compression test? might want to try that.
brrrrr -6 degrees. 45 miles to work. before i let my truck idle 8.5 hours at work, i would get a 100 ft. extension cord and plug in the block heater. there must be 110 volts there some where. i suspect that under normal driving conditions, this truck will do a lot better than 90 miles on a quart.
If you must idle it, (which I advise against) set your fast idle up to 1100 hot engine and use a jumper to it from the battery. Disconnect the power wire that usually goes to the fast idle solenoid since it is inline with the timing advance and you do not need that on idling all day. Test your GPs and I think you will find the problem.
Well, I had the truck plugged in outside one night at 25* and it wouldn't start. It turns over you can hear it hitting like it's gonna start but, doesn't start. Now at -20* airtemp not including the wind it won't even hit at all. I have checked the GP's 3 times to make sure there ok and getting power to them. I just tested the coolant and there's no oil in there and I have no external leaks. When I do get it started (in my garage or pull starting) it runs like it's not on all the cylinders and then it clears out, no white smoke just black. I heard that the fuel pump can start sucking oil in and send it with the fuel. Has anyone heard of that? What are some other simptoms of bad rings or? I'd bring it somewhere to check it out but I'm really poor right now. So, any suggestions you guys have is greatly appreciated. Oh, my fast idle solenoid is not working...
Up in the front of the engine down by the goose neck there is a 2 prong sensor,make sure the plug is connected to it,it controlls the fast idle as well as the timing advance,which makes for easier starts.The fuel pump(lift pump can go bad but what can happen is the fuel will get into the oil,a rare problem,in fact i have heard of it but never seen it or was told of it from a 1st hand source).If your starter is just a little slow turning you will have problems starting,as a rule of thumb if you can count the reveloutions its turning too slow.What method are you using to test the glo plugs?