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sounds like a very tired engine with more than 131k on er. I have 200,000 on my 7.3 and it burns no oil and has no blue smoke.
Whats the price on a new crate engine after core exchange? Thats what I plan on doin with myne in about 100,000 more miles.
i would have the heads checked and go from there, 800 bucks to have both heads rebuilt i believe. just rings is not going to solve much problem, don't buy rings because they are cheap, chances are the rings are sealing better now than what they will after you replace the rings w-o boring it properly or sleeving it, the cdr valve helps slow oil leaks that aren't under high pressure. has no effect on high pressure leaks such as oil cooler. my truck drips once every 5 seconds or so and it doesn't seem like i put all that much oil in it. it may be because the dozers we run use about a gallon or more a day so a quart or less a week seems very little in comparison to me anyways. by the time you buy gaskets, and other stuff you will find you need for your engine, it won't be as cheap as it looks on paper. and very time consuming trying to do it in the truck. i strongly advise against it. i'm in with don on this one, either do it right or buy lots of cheap oil. the oil will probably be the cheapest way out, even if you can get rings for 1/2 price.
DarylZ
These 7.3s are known for wearing valve guides, If you have never checked yours the intake seals and guides could be the major oil user. So before planning on a total rebuild I would start with an indepth check of the heads/valves. Only have them done by a reputable shop who knows the minimum thickness for these heads by Ford, IH and AERA standards. One point ....we never do wet compression testing as there is NOT enough space for the oil/medium used to be accomodated when the piston is at TDC. If you use anything there could be severe damage to the connecting rods..BENT.
I have already replaced the rubber intake valve seals and the plastic exhaust valve hats/umbrellas. The rubber intake seals still looked VERY good. The exhaust hats/umbrellas were either broken up and in pieces or there was nothing left of them. There did not seem to be any play in the valve quides, but that was just by hand feel.
The tip about the oil cooler leak being a high pressure leak was a very helpfull tip.
I just traveled about 130 miles and my dipstick went from almost center between the lines to below anything even showing on the dipstick. I put at least 2 quarts and the dipstick still did not show anything. I lost a LOT of oil in a very short period of time. Could this thing burn that amount of oil that quickly? As I, said I noticed a leak from the oil cooler lines on the front diff. I am almost thinking that the cold weather in Ohio caused the seals to shrink and leak more than before.
I do appreciate all the insightfull tips to these engines. They help me try to figure out what is going on. Thanks again.
what do you guys think about a motor that has been sitting in Florida for about a year without beeing started as a replacement. It was supposedly in great condition before left to sit. What would this sitting around for a year do to the engine. How badly could it damage it? Are diesels fragile if not started frequently?
I think the oil cooling lines on the diff are for the power steering. The oil cooler I speak of is the long one where the oil filter attaches. The Motocraft oil filters have been known to leak at the crimpover at the top, what brand are you using.
Question on your dipstick is there a number 1811229C2 about half way up the dipstick.
If it's burning that much, it should leave a cloud everywhere you go. It could leak that much, but it would be all over the bottom of the truck. I'd say it's on it's way out. I know it sucks, but you either have to do it right, or be prepared to keep doing it over and over.
I know a guy that rebuilds stationary pump engines out in the dirt. He rebuilds his every season, sometimes 2 times per season. I do mine in a barn that is as clean as I can get it. Mine last 2-3 seasons easily, sometimes more depending on the motor.
I know these engines can burn well over a quart in a day, but I would think you've got another leak helping you loose all that oil.
And as far as valve guides burning oil? Not gonna happen! The cylinders are the only thing capable of burning large amounts of oil. This is due to the piston coolers that are at the bottom of the cylinders spraying oil under the pistons all the time. The bad part is, only a major trip through a machine shop is going to fix it. Not much chance getting a new set of rings to seat in a worn bore.
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