F250 bed removal
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F250 bed removal
I plan to install one of those conversion hoist kits so my 1984 F250 can dump small loads of dirt, gravel etc. I'll need to remove the box to mount the hoist - anybody have any ideas on best procedures to remove and reinstall the box?
Thanks,
Gary in Wisconsin
Thanks,
Gary in Wisconsin
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
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From: Virginia
F250 bed removal
Just unbolt it and unplug the wiring harness at the back. Disconnect the fuel filler tubes and it will lift right off. That brings up an interesting question I never thought of. How do you deal with the fuel fill if the bed dumps?
Anyway the above is in a perfect world. When I took my bed off, the bolts had rusted so bad that they twisted in the bed. With no way to hold the bolt, I had to take a grinder and grind the heads off the bolts. Then I had to lift the bed off and then discovered the bolts where larger near the head than near the threads. So After the bed was off, I had to take a sawzall and cut the bolts off to get them out of the frame.
Anyway the above is in a perfect world. When I took my bed off, the bolts had rusted so bad that they twisted in the bed. With no way to hold the bolt, I had to take a grinder and grind the heads off the bolts. Then I had to lift the bed off and then discovered the bolts where larger near the head than near the threads. So After the bed was off, I had to take a sawzall and cut the bolts off to get them out of the frame.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 230
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From: SW Maryland
F250 bed removal
Man that sucks. I'm going to have to take off the bottom of the bed because it's rusted through and I really don't want to be cutting bolts....
It brings up a question though... if you weld a block of zinc to the frame, bed, block, <insert large metal part here> shouldn't the zinc oxidize before the iron, saving rust? I think this is the principal used in stainless steel (or galvanized steel, maybe), except that the zinc is actually mixed in as a part of the alloy blend. Basically the zinc oxidizes more readily than iron and as such will keep rust from forming as long as there is zinc exposed to the air...
If so, it'd seem you could just cut away old oxidized zinc blocks and weld new ones on every year or so. Don't know how big the block would need to be for 12 months protection, but it'd be a hell of alot easier than painting the underside.
It brings up a question though... if you weld a block of zinc to the frame, bed, block, <insert large metal part here> shouldn't the zinc oxidize before the iron, saving rust? I think this is the principal used in stainless steel (or galvanized steel, maybe), except that the zinc is actually mixed in as a part of the alloy blend. Basically the zinc oxidizes more readily than iron and as such will keep rust from forming as long as there is zinc exposed to the air...
If so, it'd seem you could just cut away old oxidized zinc blocks and weld new ones on every year or so. Don't know how big the block would need to be for 12 months protection, but it'd be a hell of alot easier than painting the underside.
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