i am restoring my 64 ford f-100. I was wondering if the body caulk that is supposed to go in all the joints is neccesary.

 

I Think Its To Keep Water Out Of Your Joints,also Advice On Caulk ,there Is 2 Types One That Stays Pliable And The Other Gets Hard,i Used The Soft Pliable And Primed Then Tried To Sand It Was Like Sanding Chewing Gum.dug It Back Out,nice Mess, And Used The Hard Type No Problems.

 

Do you have a manufacturer for this stuff?

 

Deereman2
Welcome to FTE, and our world of "Slicks". . . . .

NAPA carries both, so will any reliable Autobody Supply House/ Jobber that services commercial accounts and body shops in your area.
Body caulk is like plumbers putty. It comes in strips 10/12 inches long & is mostly used around windshields, or under sill plates or pieces around steering column where it bolts/ screws to the floor, etc.
There is another compound used called seam sealer which goes in rain gutters, other seams & between laminates where body panels & sheetmetal parts join each other. I have a feeling this is what you are referring to, more than "Body Caulk". . . .

I replace this seam sealer using a type that remains pliable (non hardening) whenever I do a major, total resto, especially around rain gutters, roof turret and/or door seams. It's paintable but I'm not sure all brands are so ask before you purchase it.

May I suggest after you dig out all the old seam sealer, you treat seam with Ospho or another phosphoric acid compound, to convert any rust in seams and/or between the laminates, which you can't see or easily get at to deal with. Be sure to follow all label instructions. Also give whatever you use extra time to work & before doing anything else in/ with seams or between laminates.

I hope this is of some help.

FBp

 

FBP, A wealth of info as alway :-)
I went into my 65 shop manual,book 2 page 17-7....part number for stuff FoMoCo used in painted area...gutters,bed joints, etc is C3AZ-19562-A for white, -B for black....it was used in doorjamb area, roof to window frame area up front and the seam across the upper rear of cab, among the other joints. Said to be fast drying and semi-elastic according to the book....


Hope this helps....cs65

 

My painter told me to remove as much rust as possible, then use a converter to stop the rusting process. He then recommended spraying the area with epoxy primer to seal it from moisture, do all of the primer/surfacing and apply the seam sealer before applying the topcoat of paint. This way the pliable material is not damaged during the blocking process and ruining the final look of the paintjob.