i was curious what gauge of wire would i have to use to relocate the battery in my 88 f150 from the wheel well to a box right behind my cab mounted to my flatbed?i just want to free up some space under the hood and clean up the look some. its a reg cab so i was thinking a max of 10 to keep the cable well hidden, and out of harms way. thanks in advance
drew

 

I just looked in summit racing's catalog, and they had two different battery relocation kits. One kit used #1 guage wire and the other used #2 guage wire for the positive and negative.

 

thanks franklin, all i needed to know

 

if you read my other post (88 battery relocation) then you know im planning on relocating my battery on my 88 f150 from the wheel well to a box under my flatbed. i was thinking about how to make the box and thought "what about a dual batterie setup?" how would i set this up so that i can run things like my radio, lights, winch, ect. and still not kill my main batterie. i was also curios, if i use a battery isolator, will the engine then try to start pulling from both batteries or will it only pull from one. and also, when i make my battery box, do i need to put some kind of vent in it for the batteries? what size of an alternator came in a 88 f150 302 reg cab? thanks in advance.
drew

 

It depends on the isolater. If you have an isolater selanoid, it depends on how you trigger it. Depending on how you do it, the second battery could be connected through a switch, through the ignition (when you turn the key), etc.

A "real" isolater only seperates the two batteries for charging, and if you wire them entirely seperately no, they will not "pool" the starting effort. (mine are set up this way... one runs the amp, lightbar, strobes, quick-jumpstart cable, and the winch, and the main battery runs the truck.) You can wire them together so both batteries always help with everything, but this wouldn't prevent you from running your main battery dry. You can buy a seperate unit called "Priority Start" that is supposed to lockout the battery when the voltage drops to a predetermined level, which theoretically is supposed to allow just enough juice to remain to start the vehicle. I think the unit is $50.

I should add that the way I wired my jumper cables, I can jump my main battery using the aux battery by connecting the quick-connect cables to my main battery. Makes it easy should I run the main one down, which shouldn't happen b/c the aux batt takes all the high-draw stuff, So unless I leave my headlights on the aux batt should die before the main one, telling me to start the truck.

 

thanks grafekie, ill look around some