ignition module problems
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5
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Hello again, I wanted to give an update. I bought a brand new from Ford, Motorcraft ignition module but I am reluctant to put it on. I am still considering several of the points about the wiring, while looking at the wiring I noticed the way the wires to the coil and pickup coil are run along the engine block, my thought right now is that over the years the heat from the engine has damaged them. As always input is welcome.
Thanks for everyones help.
Thanks for everyones help.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 17
From: Hesperia, CA
I have seen some vehicles where the wires have been so hot that the wires fused together where the go over the intake. it might be a good idea to unwrap the harness and make sure they are not melted together.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2005
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Hello again, thanks for all the great tips but the problem still remains. I replaced module with a motorcraft part checked wiring harness from module to coil and pickup coil all wires had only 0.5 ohm resistance. So I am looking at the possability that their tester at the auto parts store is malfunctioning and maybe the module isn't the problem. I replaced part today drove it for a little while, and on my way back home thought I would open it up a little and the truck just fell on its face, the best way I can describe it is like this when I put my foot on the gas its like you just reached and turned off the key, and as soon as you let off the gas and ease back in to it does okay until you get back on the pedal for normal driving then again its like I just turned the key off. So I eased it home checked the module and it WAS NOT hot. The other thing is at idle it runs fine. Now I am leaning toward the possabilty that it is a carb problem. Please help I am really getting frustrated, I really need my truck. Thanks again for all your help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,323
Likes: 2
From: Montana Territory
That sounds like your timing. More specifically the vacuum advance control in the distributor. If it runs at all, its not the ignition module. I sell Standard electrical parts all day long, and have NEVER had a Ford Ignition module come back. I've never had any Standard parts come back.
When the vacuum control in the distributor gets old, it leaks, and doesn't advance the timign enough. This is evident in your description of trying to accelerate. I've got this same problem, but its not as bad.
This can also be a fuel filter problem, since it requires more fuel when you accelerate, and carter carbs are famous for this.
If you can, try to give us a list of stuff that you have recently changed and how recent it was.
Welcome to FTE!
When the vacuum control in the distributor gets old, it leaks, and doesn't advance the timign enough. This is evident in your description of trying to accelerate. I've got this same problem, but its not as bad.
This can also be a fuel filter problem, since it requires more fuel when you accelerate, and carter carbs are famous for this.
If you can, try to give us a list of stuff that you have recently changed and how recent it was.
Welcome to FTE!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Hartland, MI
Definately sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Your engine should run just fine without the vacume advance hooked up! Its just there for highway driving fuel economy. I always leave mine unhooked becuase its unpredictable when it will detonate when pulling heavy loads. I would definately look at the fuel filter and/or pump.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,984
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My guess is that it's a clogged fuel filter. A lot of rust can build up in these old tanks over the years, and some of it evenutally finds it's way to the filter and clogs it up. I'd change the filter and see how it runs.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2005
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As requested here is a list of parts I have installed, Motorcraft ignition module yesterday, coil, pickup coil, and voltage regulator about 2 weeks ago, fuel pump about 4 to 6 months ago and fuel filter about a year ago.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
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I agree with the previous post -- if it has spark it isn't the module -either they work or they don't there is no half way. Normally if they fail it's on start up don't seem to fail while running(my limited experience)
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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Do you guys think that it could be bad intermitly.. I had no trouble with mine until I pulled the engine out and replace the rear main seal. I just dropped it back in and when I started it up it ran perfectly for and a 20 min in the driveway but then all of the sudden it started running rough and died.. I started it back up and again it rand fine for awhile but then did the same thing..
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 3
i have found the best solution for the old ford module/wireing thats 30+ years old and has seen better days for about 40.00 you can get an hei gm based dist to fit all the ford v8s 302/351/351c 351/400m 460 ect i use them in 2 of my trucks for years now and they run great,old wireing is removed and cleaned up 1 wire hookup tach port faster advance curve and i hate to say it but that dist design has being around for decades,proven,reliable,and every part house that i have ever seen in the country has coils,caps,rotor for these look under ford dist in eval bay theres hundreds of sellers
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 17
From: Hesperia, CA
Californian’s beware, you might not get through smog with a HEI distributor in there. My old vacuum advance went out and I went to Ford and got a new one. The smog people wouldn’t pass it because it had two ports on it. I had to get a letter from Ford stating that it was the direct and only replacement available for this vehicle. I had to send the letter to the smog ref to get him to intervene on my behalf and tell the smog station to pass the darn thing. I can’t imagine what the would say if you drove in there with a totally different distributor in there.