Velocity is volume * speed, and the pressure is what forces the speed of the exhaust. So locating the turbo at point where exahust velocity is greatest would provide the best ratio of boost to backpressure.

How long is the intake tract in a configuration like that? If you had to pressurize an extra 8 feet of 3 inch tubing, that is a lot compared to maybe 2 or 3 feet in most conventional setups.

But if the combination works for him and he's happy with it, more power to him! Even if it's not the most optimum setup I'm sure it's twice as good as it ever was stock.

 

put your hand over your exhaust tip, you can actually seal it tight for a little bit.
now try to seal your hand over the exhaust manifold outlet (hypothetically) you wouldn't be able to seal it off due to the pressure coming out of the motor. there is a pressure loss from one end to the other, and I am sure spool time would be much greater than if it were mounted traditionally. your charge piping will also prevent quick spool time. for instance. pressurize a 240z bottle with lung power, usually takes one breath. now do the same with a 2 litre bottle, it'll take atleast three good breaths. this is exagerated turbo lag. I look at it like this, you are going to have to plumb all that charge piping, and it costs money, just spend that money on an intake manifold, and get better performance. you can build your own system which (on a 2.4 litre nissan engine) can make 250 hp, that's about 150 over stock, for about $1800. and you can look good doing it. I know I wouldn't want my intake system hanging under my car where rocks, animals, and whatever other road debris can punch a hole, and send garbage into my engine, or turbo.

sorry for such a long reply, I hope someone gets something useful out of it.

 

The reason you want a cooler intake charge is not so much density but detonation. Too much heat leads to early detonation. Cooler air = more boost you can safely apply. The fuel also acts as a coolant. You'll need to upgrade the ignition so the air rushing in doesn't 'blow out' the spark on you. Most supercharged, blown applications have a smaller gap on the spark plugs. You'll have to upgrade the fuel delivery and the carburator. I think Holley and a few others sell 'Blow-thru' carbs. You have to be able to supply one extra psi of fuel for each extra psi of boost. You want 14psi fuel at 7psi boost.

Twin turbos are used to lessen turbo lag. You can use 2 smaller turbos than one big one to supply the same psi and volume. Smaller turbos spool quicker. Call a good turbo or superchager supplier for good info. They deal with em every day and can give you much better info for what your wanting. Street driving, racing, or weekend warrior. Good luck with it.

I want a Kenny Bell or such on my truck More low end for the bigger vehicle.

 

The the pressure differential on each side of the turbine is what spins it, not the velocity.
Increased density and slower velocity does not mean the exhaust would build up. Think of the freeway. If teh cars are closer together and going slower couldn't the same number of cars pass teh same spot per hour as when they are farther apart and going faster?
Physics really isn't that hard.

 

haha, but then again, couldn't the slow people just pay more attention and go faster? haha and when there is a crash do they call that turbulance? ahahaha

sorry, I had to go there.

_Ken

 

the turbo systems i've used have a small entry point on it to apply gear oil every 10 or 15k miles.

 

Opinion of a Mechanical Engineer with an option in Gas Jet Turbines:

PV=mRT <-- The higher the temperature, the greater the volume and pressure...as the air cools, farther down the exhaust, its velocity and pressure will decrease, because its temperature decreases at the same time...no mass is added, and R is always constant, its a law!

Turbos are mounted as close to the engine as possible, because the hot, fast moving air will spin them up faster then the denser air at the end of the pipe...the only flaw is that hotter air on the compressor side, is more heat transferred to the intake side. Putting a turbo farther down on the exhaust (ie replacing the muffler) would work, however you would either need a smaller turbo, or you could be facing surge issues (pressure against the turbo only builds enough to spin it intermittently, letting gasses pass, but not building boost.)

So basically, most of your descriptions are correct, you guys just have to add them all together!

The moral of the story is any design is possible, you just need to make sure to properly size your turbo to your situation...if space requires you to mount it towards the rear of the vehicle, you are best off using a smaller turbo (preferably twins on a dual exhaust), or, if the fabrication is too outrageous, a twin screw/roots blower (my opinion is too avoid centrifigal at all cost, as they are misleading in thier claims to power.)

Welp, that about says it.

 

I concur with Pyro, but I do want to show proof of what spins the turbo. The following was copied from a Volvo turbocharged car manual............
The flow of exhaust gas turns the exhaust turbine (1), driving the connected compressor turbine (2) which draws in filtered ambient air, compresses it, and forces it into combustion chambers via the intake manifold. At low-load the engine does not create the exhaust gas velocity necessary to drive the exhaust turbine. At high-load, however, accelerating exhaust gas velocities propel the turbines to 120,000 rpm to create full boost.

 

I understand why a turbo works, and why the closer it is to the engine, the better, but still. A proper sized turbo remote mounted works plain and simple. There are many guys on ls1tech with HUGE numbers with STS kits. Mine is a little different, cause my turbo is right where the factory Y pipe in on the F150, not where the muffler is. The key to any setup is a proper A/R turbine, and you have to pay attention on a remote kit.

 

falcor, what brand of turbos do you use?

 

there is a couple of trucks i do the maintainance on which have the international 444,also known as the 7.3 liter diesel.all but one of these engines are turbo.the turbos are mounted on top of the engine and are conected to the exhaust from the driver side manifold.there is no connection to the engine oil system.instead they have a container kind of like a small power steering fluid container on the front of the engine that is connected to a belt.only the turbo isn't belt driven,it's powered by the exhaust.the oil for the turbo is checked every couple of weeks,and filled as needed.it isn't hard to manufacture if you have the right parts,tools,and experience.