Neighbor has an 80's van, aerostar. Thinking of giving or selling cheap to me. Has had problems with the starter catching teeth lately, and now can't get a good spot to crank it. My question is, I have no experience with a minivan, is the flywheel too terribly hard to replace on this van? Or should I say "thanks-but no thanks". This will be a free or next to free vehicle.
Thanks in advance!!

 

I'm guessing it's not an AWD, so dropping the transmission, changing the flywheel from a wreckers (I imagine no more than $30) and possibly the starter if the teeth are worn on that as well, is an easy job, heavy ane a little time consuming but easy, first off you need to drain the tranny as no one will thank you for spilling oil everywhere, discommect the coolant lines and take the prop off, undo the linkage and take the starter off, then undo the ring of bolts holding the T/C onto the flywheel, then the bolts that hold the transmission on and away you go. I should at this point say that fitting is the reverse but I'd get an extra pair of hansds to align everything up so you don't damage the torque convertor where it fits onto the trasmission as that will be a new seal and you don't want to do this twice. All in you should budget for around $100 and a weekend to do the job, less if the starter is in good shape and just use standard Mercon ATF. I'm not sure what a garage would charge but I reacon I could do a 2WD in about 3 hours, in the UK I used to charge £50/hour for race car stuff 9at the time about $75USD, so I'be be looking at about $300 for a mechanic to do the work, ideally you should find an enthuasist to do it for a drink or find someone mechanically minded and ask them to help, if you offered them $100 I'm sure they would jump at the chance.

 

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menusetc just and fyi since I'm still cleaning the grease out of my fingernails on the trans (and engine swap). Prices may vary due to your area... Here in Boise the shops want $5oo to remove and replace my trans. You can do it on your own... But I had a few hickups come up (see my 'starter problem' link for all the details) The four top engine mounting bolts... The top 2 are easy from inside the cab...the next 2 are a challenge. The easiest way is with a 3 ft exstention and a universal on the 15mm socket. That way you can spin it from down by the catalytic converter. The four bolts that are reached by removing the 2 eightmm bolts on the flywheel to the torq converter can be a challenge. You need a good quality 14mm long socket and a breaker bar...but make sure the (good quality 'snap on' sockets have reduced my stripping of sockets 50% but a good quality name brand will work) socket is on when you try and break it loose or you will strip the bolt and have to pull the engine (a week long job for a novice) I wouldnt remove the electrical contacts from the trans but remove it from the main (large connector), a ground connector,and a sensor wire reached from inside the cab. I broke the park/neutral switch and was frustrated getting it back running by leaving the wires on the van when I removed it. When reinstalling the connector wires, make sure this is all the way connected or the engine will not turn over. There are 4 bolts on the drive shaft at the diff that you need a 12 pt 12mm socket to remove. I had to buy one. I was emberassed at the parts house looking for a special socket for these since they are funny looking bolts and a 6 pt will just spin on them. DRAIN the trans before you remove the driveshaft......Linkauge pops off the side relativly easily just be careful not to break the plastic connectors and set them up out of the way. The filler has to come up out of the front by removing the 13mm bolt on the intake manifold. This can be a 2 person job to get back in and lined up correctly. The cooler lines have to come out and you will may have to unbolt the exhaust from the engine to get the wrenchs to them. This is four (tight) bolts (I broke one stud taking them off and had to grind off a bolt on the other) in the front by the engine and 2 back by the rear (flex exhaust) that can be removed and swing the catalytic convertor out of the way for easy access to the cooler lines and filler tube. The exhaust is connected to the trans, so removing is almost too much work for what your doing. Just use the freedom to access the top engine bolts with the long extension and removing the cooler lines and filler tube. I assume you will jack the front up and put the front wheels on ramps and remove the trans with a floor jack. (if you have a friend to borrow or can rent a trans jack it will reduce the curse words when re installing. I cut a 2x4 to place under the engine at the back of it too keep the engine level while the trans is out (a key to re installing is the trans and engine mounting on the same level angle) Hope this helps reduce time and curse words if you decide to do it...

 

Weel guys, thanks for the quick help. Just looked in the interior of the van-it is a 5-speed. Change much of anything?? I've got an open spot in my driveway. I may just move it on over and dig in. Thanks a bunch!!

 

Wow, doing that on the driveway, in the winter? You are a braver man than me Clear out the garage my friend!

 

With a 5 speed you will not have to worry about destroing the oil pump or getting the T/C in line, it should be a little easier as long as the clutch engages 1st time, I'd definatly go for it.