rear roll pan
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,782
Likes: 558
From: Kalispell, MT
I think they're the same 42 thru mid-50. Its a simple 'U' with the bottom radius the same as the stake pocket. Inside 'leg' is the height to the bed frame with a 1/2" lip. Outer 'leg' is the height of the finished bed floor and/or approx 1/4" above the top of your gate's hinge pin. Just a short 1/8" lip on top of this leg.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
After cutting out the old roll pan, it looked like even if I had a brand new one that it couldn't be installed without removing at least one of the corner stakes. There would be interference between the corner splices that insert into the stakes and go into the roll pan. The splices are apparently tack welded to the inside of the stakes.
So I cut the splices even with the inside of the bed frame rale. Went to the welding shop and had a piece of 12 gauge, 48 3/4 inches long, bent 90 degrees, with a 1 1/8 inch lip, and the other leg 3 inches long.
Detached the original bed frame to truck frame mounts from the original pan. Cleaned them up and bolted them to the frame. Then slipped the 12 gauge piece down between the end of the bed frame and the splices. Lined everything up and welded the cross piece to the mounts, bed frame and splices.
Next I will weld a piece of steel to the outside of the splices, and then probably put a length of thin walled round tubing between the two new pieces to get a radius.
I think the hardest part is over. Upon removal of the original pan the rear of the bed frame sprang out about 1/2 an inch, and the left rale dropped 3/8 inch. So it all had to be realigned, braced and clamped before welding in the new rear crossmember.
So I cut the splices even with the inside of the bed frame rale. Went to the welding shop and had a piece of 12 gauge, 48 3/4 inches long, bent 90 degrees, with a 1 1/8 inch lip, and the other leg 3 inches long.
Detached the original bed frame to truck frame mounts from the original pan. Cleaned them up and bolted them to the frame. Then slipped the 12 gauge piece down between the end of the bed frame and the splices. Lined everything up and welded the cross piece to the mounts, bed frame and splices.
Next I will weld a piece of steel to the outside of the splices, and then probably put a length of thin walled round tubing between the two new pieces to get a radius.
I think the hardest part is over. Upon removal of the original pan the rear of the bed frame sprang out about 1/2 an inch, and the left rale dropped 3/8 inch. So it all had to be realigned, braced and clamped before welding in the new rear crossmember.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,782
Likes: 558
From: Kalispell, MT
Yeah, aren't they fun - sorta like nailing jello to the wall. I rebuilt mine when I did the truck. One year later I was rear-ended and got to do it all over again.
The stake pocket braces are, as you figured, spot welded to both the stake pocket and the roll pan. Sounds like you're coming up with an alternative system. It is really a unit-body approach that works pretty well. Makes me wonder about all the angle-iron braces I've seen welded from the rear stake pockets to an 'I' beam bumper.
Keep having fun!
Tim
The stake pocket braces are, as you figured, spot welded to both the stake pocket and the roll pan. Sounds like you're coming up with an alternative system. It is really a unit-body approach that works pretty well. Makes me wonder about all the angle-iron braces I've seen welded from the rear stake pockets to an 'I' beam bumper.
Keep having fun!
Tim
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
MT, thanks for the encouragement. I expected someone to say "well with just a little tweak in this spot or that it all is real easy".
Being rearended is a concern. I am seriously considering putting on a rear bumper that I have that is so solid it could damage one of those damn Humvees! It is made out of 1/4 inch steel and would clean up nice. Trouble is it weighs about 80 lbs. It would protect the rear but probably destroy me and everything else, as "crush zone" would be nonexistent.
Before I get into the next leg of this roll pan some decisions are needed regarding the floor of the bed. On the wood, I am thinking either nontongue and grooved oak boards out of the lumber store, or nontongue and grooved clear Doug Fir from the same store. Overlayment would be aluminum sheeting with that star type pattern.
I would appreciate any comments on these choices.
Being rearended is a concern. I am seriously considering putting on a rear bumper that I have that is so solid it could damage one of those damn Humvees! It is made out of 1/4 inch steel and would clean up nice. Trouble is it weighs about 80 lbs. It would protect the rear but probably destroy me and everything else, as "crush zone" would be nonexistent.
Before I get into the next leg of this roll pan some decisions are needed regarding the floor of the bed. On the wood, I am thinking either nontongue and grooved oak boards out of the lumber store, or nontongue and grooved clear Doug Fir from the same store. Overlayment would be aluminum sheeting with that star type pattern.
I would appreciate any comments on these choices.
