Hi furball69,

Looks like the throttle butterflies are working correctly. I cleaned/lubricated them just to be certain.

I don't touch the gas pedal at all when starting, either hot or cold.

Hope this helps,
Tom Norman

 

I was just wondering if perhaps they are sticking in the open position when the engine is warm and cools off, if hitting the gas pedal before even turning the key if it would then close. But if they are working properly it probably won't do anything different.

 

sounds to me like a choke problem,probably has a choke when cold it bumps the idle up i know its not a carb its FI. sound like its giving fuel to injectors but maybe not opening up the throttle. dont know if this is right. some one tell me if this could be something that could be possible.

 

ok your fuel preasure is acting correctly and your injectors aren't sticking open since it holds preasure when you leave it off (going to 40 psi when the vac line is unhooked is normal with a low vacumn reading it thinks it's at full throttle, and bumps the fuel preasure so this is what it's supposed to do) As far as where the fuel pump relay is located I can't help you on a motor home since these are located somewhere on the body like the fire wall or fender well and not sure where they would have put it.
I'll throw out 2 other possible culprits, egr valve, and IAC. if either one is sticking could cause you some problems, so I would take them both off, and clean with some carb cleaner, and reinstall, and see if it reacts any different. Like i said in an earlier post it's really difficult to diagnos driveability problems in a written description (heck it's one of the worst to diagnose when you have the vehicle at hand, but your doin a good job of descriping your problems, and hopefully someone will hit on the problem), and I am just giving theories on where to look.
Another problem could be the BMAP sensor but without having the scan tools that one is hard to check other than if you can find another vehicle of the same year that is running correctly you could switch them and see if it follows (ford actually has this technic in thier manuals at some point they tell you to replace with known good component).

 

how about the ignition module? you should be able to remove it and get it tested. also, if the check engine light is coming on there should be some kind of code stored

 

Hi monsterbaby,

Thank you again for all the help. I'll take your advice step by step and remove/clean the EGR valve and the IAC. Gotta work the next five days so I'm not sure when I'll get back to it.

BTW, I replaced the EGR valve about 5K miles ago. Ford replaced the IAC (and several other components) about 10K miles ago as part of an emissions recall. I was surprised indeed when they did the work on the recall---on a 1993 vehicle with over 50K miles on it. The replaced the IAC, ECM, catalytic converter, and oxygen sensor, all at no cost to me.

Thanks again for the help,
Tom

 

most people do not know but emissions equip has a 100k mile warrenty as regulated by federal law, that is why ford replaced it.

 

You might try running by a local Auto Zone. They will read the codes for free. At least you will know what the computer is fretting about and can start diagnosing from there.

Brad

 

Hmmm...Looks like he already ran the codes. You musta missed that one. No big deal.

Tom,
I would try having your code reader ready some morning when the rig is cold, and start it then get the codes off that way. Then, it will be doing it's nasty stuff and you'll have the codes while it's offending. I dont know what else to tell you.

 

Hmmm...Looks like what I was suggesting in the prior post. You musta missed that one. No big deal.

Brad

 

Check your own last post. It says "You might try running by a local Auto Zone. They will read the codes for free. At least you will know what the computer is fretting about and can start diagnosing from there." Tom's problem is only when the rig is COLD. Taking it to Auto Zone or any other place that does it for free is not really an option as it would be WARM by the time it got there.
In MY suggestion, I said to get the codes while the rig was still COLD as that is when it is giving him fits. When it warms up, it seems to run fine. He states that in his original post and re-enforces that in subsequent posts. Read the entire post next time. hmmmm

 

The computer holds codes until they are erased, the CEL doesn't have to be on to get the codes out.

 

M'kay, help me here. I went back and checked my post. I see where I suggested what to do, but I don't see a single word on how he is to accomplish it. Could you please point out where I gave anything other than a general recommendation?

I guess I was wrong to presume he's a responsible adult and is fully capable of implementing any suggestions, on his own, without me interjecting a littany of sarcastic, belittling comments and thinly veiled personal slights designed to make me feel superior. Silly me.

Brad

 

Hey guys, I'm not trying to start any arguments here. I'm just trying to fix my engine.

In any case, I ran the codes three times today. Once in the morning, when cold. Once in the afternoon, after the engine had idled about 15 minutes. And once again tonight, after I let it idle for about 30 minutes. Every time, all I got on my cheap Sunpro code scanner was 1-pause-1-pause-1, which, according to the book, no problems were noted by the computer. The engine is idling smoothly as I type this, and has been idling smoothly for about 35 minutes, with no "check engine" light ever coming on.

With the help of my wife, we tracked down the source of the "click" sound that we heard previously when the "check engine" light went off. We heard no "click" sound from this relay when the "check engine" light came on and the fuel pump continued to run for several minutes. The "click" sound, accompanied by the "check engine" light going off was definitely the ignition relay.

Could the ignition relay be a factor? Could sticking contacts inside this relay cause the fuel pump to remain on longer than the 2-3 seconds that it should be on?

Thanks again for ALL the help. This is so frustrating. The beer is on me if we can get this PITA problem fixed.

And the engine is still purring smooth as a kitten...

Tom

 

Tom,
The relay COULD be the problem and since it clicks at the same time the rig starts to run good, I would say it should be replaced.

Brad,
You can hide behind the flimsey excuse of " I see where I suggested what to do, but I don't see a single word on how he is to accomplish it.", but the bottom line remains, how is he supposed to get it to auto zone to have it "checked for free" if he doesnt start it up? Hmmm and once again Brad, your anger makes me happy. I DID jump all over Tom for no reason in the beginning, I apologized, nuff said. That subject is long dead. As for Tom's poblem with his rig, he aparently (guessing from his last post ) had not tried running the codes while the rig was cold. He has since tried that and came up with nothing. It looks like he may be closer to figuring it out. Now, if you want to throw incinuations around, thats fine. I simply speak what I feel. I really don't care what others think of me. I'm not trying to feel superior to anyone.

Tom, your not starting any arguements here, we can do that on our own I guess, although I dont recall trying to start an arguement, just point out a possible mistake someone may have made.