When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Happy New Year everyone,
I'm trying to remove the steering arm from the top of the spindle assembly on my '79 F250 4x4. It appears to be held on only by 3 nuts, which I've removed, but I cannot budge it from its perch. I cannot find info on it in my books and mostly I'm concerned I'm missing something fundamental with how it's attached. This is not the pitman arm or drag link, but the arm that attaches directly to the spindle assembly. I have pictures if needed.
Please, any hints or do I continue to soak it with penetrating oil and beat on it. I have no heat other than propane torch.
Thanks all.
Dwayne, is it a 2wd or 4? I got a Haynes manual and on page 10-5 all it shows is a 2wd setup for Spindle removal. I am asuming that you have all the visible parts removed. It looks like the is a spindle bolt and pin that holds it to the radius arm and axle beam. It says you remove plugs (Where Grease zerk screws into) from the top and bottom of spindle and drive the bolt out. But it says its a pin and bolt setup in the illistation....lol. So, look to see if a bolt is in the back of the spindle, remove the zerk plugs and drive the pin out. Just my .02.
Thanks for the suggestion. It's a 4x4, with a d44 in the front. The steering arm bolts to the top of the spindle assembly (the steering attaches to it with a ball) but it's the arm that I can't get off. I've unbolted it but it will not budge and I don't want to force (read that as beat) it if theres a special procedure to remove. My Chilton book shows na da.
It's been years since I've worked on one of these and I don't have a manual here so I'm trying to remember what this looks like. Under each of the 3 nuts there should be a tapered cone that fits that over the stud and keep the arm centered properly. If you can beat on the side of the arm or on the top (beat it down) then the 3 tapered cones should pop out and the arm will come off.
I think
AH HA. It does appear there's something there. They look like flat washers from the top but do not want to separate from the spacer (whatever it's called the arm bolts to). I thought a) the rust may have welded them to the spacer, or b) it wasn't a washer after all but there was a bushing around the stud. I will try your suggestion tonight.
Thanks again.
Well, beating on it didn't seem to move it, unless I was using too small a hammer. I was told that some guys used an air chisel in the seam between the components to force them apart but that seems kinda drastic. It may be my only solution though. Any other thoughts??
You might also try asking in the 4x4 forum which is a ways further down on the main forum page. The guys in there are working on thier front ends all the time and I'm sure someone will have an answer.
Racer, I did as you suggested and posted in the 4x4 section. My post was there this morning but has now disappeared. I thought it might have been moved but I can't see it in the the other forums I checked. Can you suggest my next course of action?
I just took a look at the picture in your gallery and it's what I was thinking of. You need to get the tapered cones out by hitting on the side of the arm, besides the cones, or on the top of the arm beside the cones. You sorta have to "shock" them loose.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.