His choke is not closing - better to fix the problem you know about before looking for others to fix.

 

I looked that up and ya it is a no brainer.

 

UPDATE: Happy New Year everyone...

Went out to fire it up..the choke was open about 3/8 of an inch and when I moved the throttle the plate closed completely. Finally!! ok so AFTER my road test and AFTER running it out of gas on my road test..ya ya ya laugh it up. haha
At a completely warmed up engine when I punch the gas real quick, it pops through the carb. Does that mean its too rich or to lean..also i have the choke moved back 1 notch because I felt that it opened too soon this morn.

 

Congratulations!

The pop out the intake can be a lot of things, but it has always plagued me with my stock 2bbl 360, and two modified (one heavily) 390's...

It's probably a basic accelator pump issue - needs a bigger shot of gas when you stomp on it. Could be timing, so I'd check that first. Usually not advanced enough gets you that pop. From what you've said about the temperature where you are, if you don't have the hot-air feed for the air cleaner (and the flap in the air cleaner housing is working right), that might be the problem but it can be cleared up in other ways...

Take a few cold-start days to check on the operation of the choke - after that's all done, you can play with the accelerator pump cam on the Holley - get a accel pump cam kit, and a book that has the cam colors in it and start moving up to bigger cams to try to get rid of the pop. Be careful, at some point, you may go too far and loose power and get a blast of black smoke out the tailpipe (black smoke is too much gas). If you go to the biggest cam (like I did) and still get no help, you might have to get a bigger "shooter" - the accelerator pump feeds a piece with two holes, one for each primary barrel. Using a bigger shooter gets more gas in the initial opening, but it almost sounds like you are fine on shooter size, and just need more gas overall - so start with the cams. But only after you make sure the choke is adjusted perfectly.

By the way, don't be suprised if you need to readjust the choke in the summer

art k.

 

Hey, there's not a person in this room that hasn't dont that . . . taken off on a road test and run out of gas/sucked rust into the fuel filter/burnt a wire/yada yada and end up walking home with a stupid grin on their face. It's part of the fun, and a BIG part of why our wives put up with this hobby . . . because it's so entertaining for them. I never do a road test without a cell phone in my pocket anymore.

Congrats. All of this messing around with chokes and mixtures and fast idle cams will make you understand why every new car has fuel injection, but your new Holley can and will be running perfectly once you get it all sorted out. And the feeling of accomplishment can't be beat!

 

I couldnt have ran out of gas at a better place either..RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD!!! Luckly I took a back road and it wasnt busy.

I looked up what size the Accel pump nozzles were and they are .31 and after reading about the accel pump cam Im still a little lost on that matter. Can someone explain how the cam works to me (the young rookie!!)

I did a little research and i came up with this "Keep in mind that turning the nut clockwise will allow for more travel of the diaphragm, and will yield a larger "pump shot". Remember that the fuel source for the AP is the float bowl directly behind the pump, and when the car is off the fuel will quickly be depleted by operating the throttle."

 

I've run out of gas too

.31 on the "shooters" is already bigger than the basic Holley, I think my vac-sec 750 came with .26's... and I quickly went to .31's.

The cam for the accelerator pump, if you look at it, the bigger ones have a bigger "ramp" and are just plain bigger in size - so the accelerator pump gives out a bigger (longer) shot if the shooter-size remains the same.

The "keep in mind turning the nut ..." thing, yeah, I've done the same thing, but the adjustment there is minimal compared to changing the cam. But be sure to adjust that bolt/spring combo based on your cam

Here's a question: Does it pop AFTER you mash it to the floor, or during the push to the floor? If it's AFTER the gas-pedal-flooring, you need more fuel overall (accelerator pump pulse is not lasting long enough) as in bigger cam - if it's at the beginning or middle, you need more of a shot, ie; the shooter (nozzle) needs to be bigger so the fuel comes in earlier. Everyone, feel free to pick on my assertions, I've only tuned one Holley 750

On edit: Man, I gotta stop using so many smileys ...

 

As soon as I punch it. It will pop at the same time as I punch the gas. One time today I just completely slammed it to the ground and held it at full throttle just to see what it would do. It poped and "coughed" real bad and just quit. If I slowly ease into the gas its as smooth as glass, If im rough and punch it; it pops like I said above.

 

advance the timing to 12 btdc so turn it to the left if you are facing it

 

A friend of mine helped me time it a while ago. I think we set it to 0. It was like a year ago but i guess i can call him up and have him bring the light over.

 

Edlebrock.

 

This could be something else like timing, but if it's not getting enough fuel (bad pump, clogged filters, clogged pickup screen, or rusty flakes in the tank pickup) then it will do what you're describing. My theory is this: you've got a very limited supply of fuel. It runs okay when you're easy on the throttle because you're limiting the supply of air and thus keeping the mixture ratio around 14.7 or so.

But when floor the pedal, that opens up the carb, it draws in a ton of air, and the jets call for more fuel but there's none to be had, so you have a dead lean condition and it dies.

Again, it could be funky timing advance problems or a bad iginiton box too, but if there is ANYTHING that would keep that float bowl from staying full of gas, your motor will do exactly what you are describing. And if you ran it out of gas, then there is a very good possibility that it sucked in some of the rust that settles in the bottom of the tank and clogged up a line or a filter.

My next project is to buy a $150 new tank from lmc and replace all the fuel lines and filters and possibly the pump. The unreliability caused by trying to suck fuel out of a 35 year old tank through 35 year old fuel line isn't worth the $250 it will cost to replace it all.