I have a '92 Ford xlt Sport, there is a mysterious coolent leak, I cant seem to trace it. I have gone under the car and looked at it from all angles. The closest place I can find where it may be coming out from is above the right front wheel well. I am guessing it's behind the A\C compressor?? I cant see the leak without dismateling the whole right side front compressor panel.

Can anyone tell me if there are in fact any coolant lines running in this area that could have sprung a leak, or could the leak be coming from some other place. If so, what do I need to remove (the simpler the better) to get to this??

Thanks in advance.
Ryan.

 

probably your heater core has sprung a leak, do you smell coolant with the fan on and heat selected?
if so let me know I just changed mine for the second time and know a few tricks. it could also be the fittings to the heater core leaking as well. they are behind the AC on the pass side of eng compartment.
007BRONCO

 

007bronco
YES INDEED I DO SMELL COOLANT AND IT IS FILTERING THROUGH THE VENTS SO BAD THAT IT APEARS LIKE STEAM,PLEASE HELP.

 

You need to change the heater core. Not a fun job.

 

OK, Definately heater core!
step 1. Don't don't don't buy one made in mexico, or a used one. or you'll be doing this again and again.
step 2. You have two choices, A..... change the heater core as explained in any Haynes or Chiltons manual or by some excellent step by step directions available on this site by other members. (type in aerostar heater core replacement or something like that in the search section of the aerostar forum.) you may need a special Ford tool to do it this way plus Ford has told me they no longer produce hoses with the quick disconnect fittings-just the seal and clip kits for the heater hose to heater core attachments. or B..... under the hood, passenger side fender all the way back there are two heater hoses connected to the heater core just before going into the "firewall", grab them and break them off-up and down and pull, careful when they let loose and make sure your radiator is unpressurized first! remove glovebox door by opening all the way down then pushing the two clips (stopping further down movement) inwards-continue rotating door down as all your stuff falls to the floor and pull free. Remove aprox 5 or 6 5/16" bolts securing the lower portion of a black plastic cover up behind the glove box. There is your heater core! and probably lots of coolant. Rip it out of there noting how you orientated it to do so. Install new core with foam seal around it. re-install plastic cover cursing the design all the way as you probably will only get half the screws in and will have to duct tape the rest. have a beer. Get some bulk heater hose and clamp two 12-18" long pieces to the heater core on the engine compartment side with regular hose clamps. (I think 5/8") at the auto parts or plumbing store get 2 adapters that go from the heater core size hose to the engine size hose (I think 5/8-to-9/16 but check to be sure) clamp them in next to the air filter box location at the end of your 12-18" hoses (sorry, should have mentioned to remove the air filter box as well) then cut down the original heater hoses to fit the other end of the adapters, clamp them and your done! This would be a good time to replace the smaller hoses from the block and intake with new bulk hose as well .(refill rad)
not as bad as it sounds and easier than f#%$ing around with the "quick" disconnect fittings, seals and clips.
Also surf this site for more info as this is where I got this idea and it works well and surprisingly the auto parts supplier had exactly what I needed (Canadian Tire) almost like lots of other people have been doing this!
Good luck!
P.S all this was done on a 1992 4.0 L Aerostar if you have a 3 L it may be different.
007BRONCO

 

You do know that those "quick" connections are for the benefit of the assembly line workers, right? They're designed to let any drunken monkey easily push the two parts together while blindfolded and high. It's a lot easier to slide together a slip joint than to actually have to tighten a clamp around a hose. I don't think they've ever tested how easy it would be to disconnect the joint after 100,000 or so miles of heat cycling and weathering.

WHat scares me is that the fuel lines use these types of fittings as well.

 

Make sure those clamps are tight before you install the new core. You will cuss your dead cat cause you can't reach them once it's in there.

Your right those quick connects are for Retards with 80/80 vision.