when is it time to replace the water pump?

 

I pretty much agree with Level2. I would shy away from the Windstars, for a vehicle Ford does not sell a lot of, them seem to take up a lot of bays.

Any vehicle you buy with 70k+ on it you have to assume it is going to need a transmission if it is an automatic. I do not care what vehicle it is, it is an unknown and the most likely thing to fail that you can not predict.

As for Aerostars, I bought a 1995 extended length AWD 4.0 with all the options and the only thing that ever went was the transmission at 187k and it saw severe service.

Even before I started working at a Ford dealer, I did the oil every 3k, the tranny fluid and filter very 25k or so, and changed all the fluids at that time including front and rear axles and the transfer case. I believe in flushing your brakes every couple of years too.

A 1999 Windstar is a dog on a dealer's lot, he has 3 dogs, figure that out ...

There is a glut of cars/trucks and most go unsold at auction. The most he gave that person was trade in price minus -$1000. Most likely the real figure was $500-$1000 tops, it will go to the auction lot out back and be sold. It is over four years old and the lowest most banks will go is 6 years on a loan. A few months and it will be a cash only vehicle or dealer financed only.

If you have $3000 cash, I suggest buying a one owner Aerostar 4.0, 2 wheel drive, seven passenger, from a soccer mom. Skip the 3.0, for one thing the oil filter stinks to change. 1995 to 1997 were the best years for trouble free ownership. Use Consumer Reports to back that up. The front and back A/C is nice.

Every time you get into a FWD vehicle, you can expect more upkeep problems then a simple RWD vehicle (another reason I said a 2x4 Aerostar instead of AWD).

 

"Any vehicle you buy with 70k+ on it you have to assume it is going to need a transmission if it is an automatic. I do not care what vehicle it is, it is an unknown and the most likely thing to fail that you can not predict". Thanks i never thought of that. I have 7500 in saving for a minivan. So what if i buy a front wheel drive ( must have ) 1999 Ford Windstar for 5,000 and then keep 2500 in saving for a new transmission later on. That's what I did for the Dodge Caravan I have now. Instead of 10,000 for a 1999 Honda Odyssey and no extra money for a new transmission later on. What do you guys think... no really Thanks for your time, I really appreciate it.
Happy New Years!,
Mike

 

The reason I said $3000 is that is the most any sane dealer would give anyone on a trade in for a Windstar, KBB says $4,745 trade-in for a SE (a loaded seven pass with the AC) in good condition. I would offer $3500 and go to $4k tops by increments of $50. Get to $3700 and if that is not good enough, leave! Give it a couple of days, call back with an ad from a newspaper for one near $3700 and offer $3750. End of the year, you cant go wrong!

Then spend another couple of hundred going through the vehicle.

Do a compression test yourself, if not, pay the dealer $50-$100 to do it while you watch and record the results. Sale hinges on good results. You are better to throw away $100 now then buy a bad engine. A good engine that has clean oil is likely to last at least 150k with no problems.

Brakes front and rear, change ALL the fluids including the brakes, change the fuel filter (most important), and the plugs. I would put an OHM meter on the wires and if they checked okay, I would leave them. If you are doing the coolant yourself, there are a couple of bleeding issues you should be aware of before you start.

If you do not do the work yourself, then have the Ford dealer you bought it from do it, if you trust them.

 

"I would offer $3500 and go to $4k tops by increments of $50" Hi, thanks for the information. How do do this? I say 3500.00, then he says no, then I say this is bad that is bad then say how about 3550 and just keep repeating the process. Won't this take all day? I hear of people doing this all the time but I never had a chance to see try it done in person. I'm sure I can do this though.
"If you are doing the coolant yourself, there are a couple of bleeding issues you should be aware of before you start."
What are they? Pressure test first then power flush, then add new hoses, new clamps, turn heater on high while doing this. Use the same kind of coolant, change thermostate, test the coolant and thats all I can think of.
I'll see if i can find the maintance records from the dealer for the minivan to.
"A good engine that has clean oil is likely to last at least 150k with no problems".
If the oil is clean it may of just been change, what then??? Any other ways to tell, maybe open the valve cover?

Mike
Happy New Year!

 

If it takes you 4 hours to save $400 you've just made yourself $100 an hour

 

honestly the only miniva id buy is a chevy astro, 4.3 rear-drive, better automatic, ive never liked the look of a aerostar and ive heard its real tough to work on them. the windstar was based off of the taurus and inherites all the same problems with the head gaskets and trans. the gm and chrysler front-drive vans have their issues also, i dont know about the honda minivan other than its real overpriced. we had a '87 astr and it was like having a full-size short-wheelbase van. great tow vehicle, wide enough to see down the sides, take the bench seats out and its a panel truck. like any van its not easy to work on but not impossible like some of the front drives are. milage with mine was 15-19 but i did have the lower 3.73 rear end with the tow pkg. im a ford fan all the way but for a small van id go g.m.--again. for a larger van id get a E150 with the small V8.

 

First, convince yourself you do not need the van, you do not want it, and that you like your cash better in the bank, that it will never be worth more then you pay for it, and the only reason you are buying it is because its slightly better then walking 10 miles in a rain or snow storm. Then remind yourself Ford built over 100,000 1999 Windstars and this dealer only has three of them.

If need be, print this out and keep it on the back of a clipboard. When you get hammered and feel weak, lift up a piece of paper on the clip board, read it (out loud if needed), then then get the price you want.

Do your homework, buying papers and magazines showing 1998, 1999, and 2000 Windstars for $4k or less. Reasons why are not important. Bring print outs from auctions sites where the bidding has not ended yet, such as EBAY that show vehicles under $4k. I did a search and there are about 30 in that year range under $2k. Do not show your paperwork unless needed.

Then go in for a normal test ride, noting the above cautions about engine and transmission,

--> IF <--

you like the car, have them run a carfax report (which you will verify at home), sit down, read it, and then ask them what the price is. If he can't give you a simple answer say your business is done, walk to the sales desk and say if you cant get a different salesperson, you are done with the current one, to give you a simple answer on the price you are walking out.

If the price is over $4k, laugh at them, and ask the saleman what makes him think this vehicle is worth more then one selling down the street for $3k. This is where the homework part comes in, only show one vehicle at a time for every offer/counter offer, not all at once. You tell him there is no way you are going to pay more then $3k for that thing when you can buy a better model from so and so for $3k.

Tell him, what buyer who has $ ## cash to buy this vehicle, would not just buy a new one and finance the balance at 0% interest, and that when it hits six years old the Windstar can't even be financed.

If he asks why you don't buy a new mini-van yourself, you say because all cars are pieces of ... junk, and that you will let some other fool pay for the depreciation and the only reason you are buying one is its better then walking (see 1st paragraph).

Who knows, maybe you will buy one off E-BAY if its available locally. Maine is Ford country, I have property in Somerset county and its all Ford there, the local economy is depressed and people need jobs. I am sure there are Windstars to be found from private sellers.

If he says something to the effect of "you are going to walk away over $$$$", look him in the eye and say "I dare you to put $100 of your money into my hand and see how fast I leave and not come back".

I use to sell up to 50 cars a month (more then some small Maine Ford dealers) and have been a sales manager on new and used car lots. There are basically three types of sales people:

1) A professional saleman who will lie and cheat and do whatever it takes to sell a car and not think twice about the pain he causes someone. The other profession he lusts after is being in politics because it does not require working or effort. Probably at one time had his own lot or business, but, drove it into the ground. Usually the guy in charge of the auction lot.

2) A salesman that is there because it is the only job he is qualified for and it suits him well because he likes to lie. Usually a convicted felon that likes drugs. Thinks everything female and with a skirt wants to date him.

3) A professional salesman that simply likes selling cars and trucks, does it for a well paying job to support his family, and is a sort of fanatic about motor vehicles.

Typically, into work trucks, may drive a motorcycle to work on a nice day (if younger), into boating, etc. Ask him a question about a tow package and he will know ratios, payloads, wheelbases, etc. Usually the slightly fat guy, drinking coffee, with dozens of certifiicates and awards around his desk. Usually a neat desk, tie, polite, no swearing, and the mechanics LIKE him. Unlike the others, has all the spec, data, and color swatch books near his own desk.

Try to get #3.

Bring a blank check made out for $100 (so you are not tempted to give a bigger deposit), give your car keys to noone, and try to bring a friend.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> then I say this is bad that is bad then say how about 3550

List all the defects you want fixed (hopefully none). Noone ever changed my mind nit picking a USED car to lower the price. You either like the car enough to consider it or you do not.

> Won't this take all day?

It might take all week or even a month. After a used mini-van has sat for 4 weeks and it is the end of the month, you might find people more willing to deal. Time is on your side, use it.

> "If you are doing the coolant yourself,

Just check the Windstar forums.

> If the oil is clean it may of just been change, what then???

Compression test as noted earlier. A blown head gasket etc will show up there. It is the best indicator of engine life, besides obvious noises and leaks.

> Any other ways to tell, maybe open the valve cover?

Not on any modern FWD car unless you have a few spare hours. Besides, I think opening a car up for an inspection like that is UNREASONABLE. A compression test and computer scan are very reasonable for something over $2,000.

 

What about a '95 Windstar for $2200?
It's immaculate, it runs great.

 

I would never buy a windstar. I had a 98 windstar limited, and it was loaded with problems. It went through 3 transmissions, 2 oxygen sensors, a head gasket, too many sets of tires, a front axle, it burns oil and the list goes on. Im tired of spending more money on it so it just sits in the backyard rusting away. I personally like full size vans, so i would go with a 96-on savana or express.