oilpan gasket replacement?
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Joined: Feb 2001
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oilpan gasket replacement?
I need to get mine replaced pretty soon. Have heard differing views on how to do it and how easy it is. Any expert tips? It is the rear seal leaking badly I think. Thanks for any tips. jz
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
If it's leaking in the rear 99.99% of the time it's the rear main seal & not the Pan. First retighten pan bolts. These Fe blocks are known for rear main seal leaks. You didn't say what engine or model 2 or 4x4..
..my 2cent
orich
..my 2cent
orich
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OK. Yes this is on a 1967 truck, 2X4. I thought it might be the rear main seal. I have read in the past of a way to thread the upper 1/2 of the seals into place. This sounds like a major job to me.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I put those in yrs ago but not in a Fe block they are not fun to put in. The fe also has side wedge seals in the rear main lower part of the bearing block plus the rope seal. Today they also use a sealer on the inside of the block lower bearing mating face to help stop oil getting by the lower bearing block
.You'll have to drop the crank some I'm sure to get the old out and pull the new one in. If not the pulling Tool may come loose from the rope packing then you'll have to go get another one.. The front main bearimg maybe a problem getting to the main bolts loose so you don't bend the crank... good luck my 2cent
orich
.You'll have to drop the crank some I'm sure to get the old out and pull the new one in. If not the pulling Tool may come loose from the rope packing then you'll have to go get another one.. The front main bearimg maybe a problem getting to the main bolts loose so you don't bend the crank... good luck my 2cent
orich
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Thanks, I think you are probably right that the FE blocks are prone to the rear seal leaks. mine seemed to get worse after I let it sit idle for most of the summer. Maybe that seal got even more dried out and shrunk up.!
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: waco
If you decide to replace the seal with the engine still in the truck, the easiest and safest way that I have found is this. Take the nut loose that holds the engine mount to the stand on each side. Jack up the motor as high as it will go. put 2/4 wooden blocks between the mount and the stand and sit the engine back down on them. This will give you enough clearance to get the pan off and on. The back of the crank will come down just barely enough to get the rear main seal replaced without taking the front seal loose. It's a pain, but I've done it. I would highly recomend biting the bullet and yanking the engine out. Be sure to check out the bearings while your in there. Hope this helps you.
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From: Tuttle, Oklahoma
Originally Posted by jzjames
Thanks for that advice. I probably will 'bite the bullet' when I do this job. jz
_Ken
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From: Westminster, Colorado
I've replaced more than a few engines in my cars over the years....and I'll say this....consider buying/rebuilding a replacement engine....especially if you need your ride to have a minimum of down time....I did it the long way a couple of times and went without my truck while getting oily every night....the extra expense of having a second engine prebuilt and ready to install was worth the price to me....then you have a second block (the engine you remove) that you can gradually work on for later. Also, if there are any issues with your new engine, it may have a warranty to take care of it.