need some suggestions fast!!
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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need some suggestions fast!!
well im currently in the process in lifting my truck 11 inches and ran into some shocks problems. i need a shock that is 32 inches fully extended. i know my only choices are bilsteins, king, and fox, there might be some others that i dont know of. could yall give me some advice on which ones i should go with as far as price and best ride? also if there are any other companies that ive left out be sure to give me some info on them. thanks
-josh
-josh
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also found a company called doetsch tech, never heard anything about them but i know they make the mv-12 that would fit in my category. if anyone knows anything about these please give me some info. thanks
-josh
-josh
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Del Rio, Texas USA
there is a handful of companies that make shocks of any size/applications.. the ones you listed all sound like good choices.. Kings are the best for the money(lots of money).. they have high end shocks that cost more then your entire lift did.. its all about what you need i guess.... anyway best for the price could be new DR series shocks , check DCSpecial's pics.. he's running them, very competitively priced and are custom valved for lifted superduties with just the right comp. and rebound. to allow the heavy duty leaf spring type suspesion to move as much as possible...King can also build shocks in any configuration... I am always at the sand dunes.. and at the dunes King shocks rule.. so naturally thats the way i had to go....
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: IL, USA
As JJ mentioned I'm happy with the DR reservoirs (pics in my gallery). I never measured extended length but they were slightly longer than the 7100s I had that were 31.xx" extended so the DRs should be at least 32".
Kings, Bilsteins, Fox, Sway-A-Way, etc.. all make good, rebuildable shocks that will ride good as long as they are valved for your application.
Kings, Bilsteins, Fox, Sway-A-Way, etc.. all make good, rebuildable shocks that will ride good as long as they are valved for your application.
Last edited by DCSpecial; Dec 21, 2004 at 07:20 PM.
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thanks for yalls help, i just have one other question: my new wheels came with two center caps for the front, a closed end like the ones for the rear, then two that have open ends so you can get to the manual locking hubs. i have seen guys run no center caps at all on thier trucks and is there any kind of problems that can occur from not running them and also if i put the closed end center caps on the front it would obviously not let me get to the manual locking hubs. the hubs i thought lock automatically when you put it in 4wd, or do they? what would yall recommend, im just worried about gettin alot of mud caked in the open ends and then something goin wrong like seals on the hubs.
-josh
-josh
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From: IL, USA
I don't run any center caps in the front (again, pics in gallery). No problems from not having any. IMO most center caps (except the factory ones and the Weld Racing ones) look bad since they don't fit close to the locking hub.
If you have ESOF then the hubs *should* lock when you turn it to 4x4. However, if you were to have a leak in the system and they don't lock automatically you'll want to have access to the locking hub. Most, if not all, of the lug-centric wheels I've seen require the center cap to be mounted behind the wheel so you'd have to remove the wheel to remove the center cap which could be a problem if you need 4x4 and your hubs don't automatically lock.
If you have ESOF then the hubs *should* lock when you turn it to 4x4. However, if you were to have a leak in the system and they don't lock automatically you'll want to have access to the locking hub. Most, if not all, of the lug-centric wheels I've seen require the center cap to be mounted behind the wheel so you'd have to remove the wheel to remove the center cap which could be a problem if you need 4x4 and your hubs don't automatically lock.
