When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You reported that the blend door in the heater box (under the hood) is good.
My question; is the cable from the controls to the blend door actuator working? I had the same problem and the cable was bent under the dash and the blend door did not move! I had great heat, but it was 85 degs out side and I was hot!
Here's everything I know so far:
Water Pump Good
Hoses Good & Hot
Heater Core Good
Blend Door Shuts TIGHT
Cable Closes Door TIGHT
Nothings Plugged
What I don't know is: Why isn't the pump pumping enough fluid into the core? It should shoot out the hose a mile long. I guess there's no more questions I can ask on here, I'll have to start going to church.
What I would do in your case is replace the heater core again. Even though it's flowing water, it may not be transferring the heat correctly. If possible, can you rig it up so you can feel the heater core to see if it's hot? It really couldn't be if you have airflow?
There is a valve on the heater hose that could be defective, its supposed to allow coolent in to the heater core, its sometimes very close to the inlet side of the hose. Check it to make sure its working, also some fans cages will spin correctly in low but won't spin very fast on high if the allen screw came loose on the fan cage. Thermostat has to be correct (180 to 195) Coolent has to be 50/50 mixture, too much coolent won't get hardly any heat....
I don't know if this is your problem but I had a similar one. Guy who i brought truck off had 160 degree thermostat (heater blew cold air) I changed it to 180 deg. thermo, very little change, so i put a 195 in and know it works fine. Everything was working fine (hot hoses, closed doors et. etc..) with 160 and 180 thermostats. Just a thought anyway.
If the water pump isn't working, there would not be any movement of coolent in the engine or heater core, in fact, you'll have more heat then you'll ever need...and the engine would certainly be a large paperweight. If you have air still in the heater core and its trapped, it would not get HOT enough for heat warmth. You can disconnect and plug the heater hoses, and the engine would still be able to run properly. If you're getting a sweet smell and water vapor around the inside windows, you have a small leak in the heater core someplace. You should get some pressure (firm) on the rad. hoses. Rad cap should be from 14 to 16 pound cap and in good working order. These are some other facts about what you should know in order to get the warmth of the heater in the cab. and a good flush of the rad. system would confirm if you have a blockage someplace in the heater core.... and would help your engine to run cooler in the summer and fall. What does your reading on the temp gage read? Have you tested the temp of the coolent with a thermometer?
My dad measured the vanes on the old waterpump and there was greater than or equal to .050'' wore off compared to the new one. He said judging by his experience with hydraulic pumps on 'A' John Deeres, this would probably not affect the volume, meaning the radiator would cool enough. But with over .050'' tolerance between vane and pump housing it couldn't pump any significant pressure which is needed to push enough volume to the heater core because the hoses are so much smaller. Sounds logical to me, why the radiator works but the core doesn't. I guess I'll just have to put the new pump on and find out for myself. Thermostat can't be too cold because my heater worked fine before, it just got worse and worse until there was nothing. Locknkey, there is no valve in the heater hose.
where did you get the newer heater core from? i would only suggest the dealer units. i too believe the waterpump is probably not at fault, if its flowing enough to cool the motor its flowing enough for the heater core. ive had many WPs go bad on me with no change in heat. and the thermostats do play a big part in how much heat you will have, make sure you have a good working stock thermostat. ive put 160deg thermos in all my cars and lost a ton of heat because of it. good luck.
I think I got it from carquest. That's usually where I get those kinds of parts from. If the new waterpump doesn't do anything, then I'll try the core again. I just want to get my truck on the road again, heat or no heat.
Hey Boss when you figure it out let me know. I have been having the same problem with my 86 ranger. Ive done everything you have except the water pump and still only have warm air on low. I even put card board in front of my rad and it doesnt get any warmer.
Quick question: After letting your truck idle in the driveway for 20 minutes, with the heater on high, can you hang on to both heater hoses without burning your hands? Are both hoses the same temperature?
Steve G.
thats good you figured it out. im having the same problem with my 89 bronco, i havent tested everytihng you have , but i might start with a new water pump anyways , im not sure how old it is , but the previous owner wasnt very good at any maintance , and if that doesnt help, im getting a new heater core . i placed a smaller pice of card board in front of my radiator the other day jsut to give it a test , and it helped , not a lot , but it helped . so im going to try a larger peice today to see if theres any signifagant improvement. i have replaced the thermostat, so thats not the problem.
my 1986 f-150 heats there no tomorrow , thats why i started thinking there was something wrong with the bronco.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.