If you just purchased a used diesel...what maintenance would you perform (besides oil change) as a top priority?

 

Since I'm in the process of buying an F250 from a buddy of mine, I've been thinking along the same lines. It's great that I know and trust the guy; he's a great mechanic and a perfectionist, as well. It shows in the condition of his 20-year old truck. Except for flaking paint (good ol' Ford mid-80's primer issues), the truck is in super shape. I'm also able to get the info on what maintenance schedule he's used for the past two decades. Soooo, here's my thoughts:

1. Check with the PO to see what maintenance has been performed and when. Couldn't hurt to also ask what type/weight of oil's been used. Lacking that info, change all filters. You mentioned oil, also do air & fuel. Forget how they 'look'; we're talking cheap life insurance here.

2. Check all the fluid levels: transmission, differential(s), transfer case, PS, brake, radiator. Wouldn't hurt to drain all gear oil and replace it with fresh. That's what I paln to do.

3. Speaking of the radiator (and cooling system), if the coolant's more than two years old, flush the system and replace it with a Ford-approved coolant. The anti-corrosion additives in glycol-based coolant (the blue or green stuff) began to degrade the minute you open the jug. After exposure to air, their effective life span is about 24 months. Don't forget the SCA's (supplemental coolant additives) that help prevent cavitation and liner damage in diesels. The Ford dealer can help you there. Also purchase the little kit of test strips. These strips of litmus paper measure the alkalinity/acidity of your coolant, and let you know when it's time to add more of the SCA stuff. Checking every coupla months is cheap insurance.

4. Belts & hoses: four years on these. If older than that, change 'em out. You're looking at a Saturday morning of basic pain-in-the-butt scut work. You're also looking at more cheap insurance.

Most of the above stuff involves getting dirty/greasy/wet/cold, but when you consider what you stand to save in expensive engine repairs and lost time, trust me, it's the best time you're gonna spend.

Well, OK, maybe not the BEST time. <grin>

Dave

 

Great info...thanks

I was considering replacing the injectors...is that an expensive job? I was going to have a mechanic take care of this since I dont have much experience with diesels.

Also the glowplugs since its getting colder

 

how many miles on the engine? Dont want to waste money on injectors unless they need it.
The glow plugs you can find at autozone - motorcraft beru are the best. They seem to avoid the tips breaking off. Very similar to changing spark plugs.
If you have problems with cold weather starts, try using the block heater for a few hours before take off. Most owners have found heavy duty household timers to use on them (lowes or home depot).
Be sure to use diesel rated motor oil, 15w-40 ... , shell rotella, delo, pens oil, you can even go synthetic if you wish.
hope this helps, good luck with the ride.

 

Most everythink you would do with a gasser. Plus get a good diesel manual. Change oil use 15-40 make sure it is for diesel. Change fuel filter. Check coolant, you can get the test strips @ Napa or similar, change if required, or add additive. Check the glow plugs use test lite method. Finally sit down, when you have time, and read through the threads. You will find a lot of good info. Good luck

 

The truck runs strong, but smells like diesel strong at times...notice some fuel drip spots underneath when parked. A friend suggested it might be the injectors because when I add injector cleaner to the fuel the dripping is noticeably slower. Engine has 300,000 miles on it. Either way I thought I this would get me a better fuel mileage by swapping the injectors

 

if you have an injector leaking youll see it. ck around the rubber o rings where your lines screw on, thats the #1 place they leak, if its an injector

 

Just brought it to a mechanic...he said the leak was coming from my return lines on the fuel injectors. What is the purpose of return lines? The need for lines going to the injectors is obvious...but why return lines?

Keep in mind I am not a mechanic and new to diesels

 

the fuel system is a closed loop system and is needed to keep the injectors full. this avoids the air getting into the system and causing a miss and also keeps the injectors lubricated.
the return lines are a common problem for leaks with the new low sulfur content fuel which causes seals to dry out. if you change one set of orings, change them all since you will disturb the rest undoubtedly.
you stated that there is a smell of diesel ... raw (from the injectors leaking) or burnt (from the exhaust) or unburnt (from the exhaust and a bad injector)?

 

Im not sure how to answer this question...the smell is "very" stong...stronger than regular diesel smell....maybe that means it burnt...

what are the results of the 3 types (raw, burnt, and unburnt)?

 

Yooper00 the return lines take the excess fuel from the injectors, this fuel was used to cool and lubricate them. That fuel needs a way to get back to the fuel tanks, the injector return lines are the way for fuel and air to travel from the filter head, injectors and IP across the engine to the main return fuel line. It then travels through the fuel selector valve back to the fuel tank presently selected.

 

This really cleared it up for me...thanks