Help with PCV tube on 2.0L
#1
10-12-2000, 08:41 AM
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Indianapolis
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Help with PCV tube on 2.0L
I checked my PCV valve b/c I have oil spewing out of the oil cap breather. The PCV was fine, but the tube is FULL of CRAP! I tried to pull the tube off the crankcase, but it is really on there. I think there is some kind of connector for this tube to the crankcase. Anyone every pull the tube off? I tried pulling on it for 30 minutes and it didnt want to budge. I think if I clean the tube out, the truck will be much happier!
Thanks
Jared
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87 Ford Ranger 2.0L 2WD
98 Trans Am - 316RWHP 327RWTorque
Thanks
Jared
---------------------------------------
87 Ford Ranger 2.0L 2WD
98 Trans Am - 316RWHP 327RWTorque
#2
10-13-2000, 06:54 AM
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Help with PCV tube on 2.0L
Hey Jared,
Hope your brakes are OK! Sorry, went on the vacation thing, campin' in the woods, in the rain and snow! Kinda a last second idea, but, enjoyed the time away just the same! On the e-brake thing, lube the cables, I just spray mine down with rust-buster type stuff and use a rag to catch anything that doesn't soak into the cables. Mine have been known to stick, usually down to the brakes themselves after the "split". As far as the PVC, if yours is the same as mine, there is a metal "chamber" on the block, mine is bolted on, had to take the air cleaner assm. off, pull a few hoses back there and turn the dist. just to get to it. The hose on mine was also frozen onto the metal "chamber". Ended up cutting a split in the hose to get it off. Used 11/16"? emission hose to replace it(try to find the firmest hose you can)it's a tight fit, I think the original is slightly larger I.D. Used carb cleaner to clear the "chamber" that's mounted on the block(couldn't get it off the block, just sprayed into it when I changed oil and let it drain well before refilling), it was really full of crude. This stopped the oil from endin' up in the air cleaner. It was a pain, but worth the effort! Hope this little bit of info helps and is what your lookin' for! Have a good weekend, Chuck
Hope your brakes are OK! Sorry, went on the vacation thing, campin' in the woods, in the rain and snow! Kinda a last second idea, but, enjoyed the time away just the same! On the e-brake thing, lube the cables, I just spray mine down with rust-buster type stuff and use a rag to catch anything that doesn't soak into the cables. Mine have been known to stick, usually down to the brakes themselves after the "split". As far as the PVC, if yours is the same as mine, there is a metal "chamber" on the block, mine is bolted on, had to take the air cleaner assm. off, pull a few hoses back there and turn the dist. just to get to it. The hose on mine was also frozen onto the metal "chamber". Ended up cutting a split in the hose to get it off. Used 11/16"? emission hose to replace it(try to find the firmest hose you can)it's a tight fit, I think the original is slightly larger I.D. Used carb cleaner to clear the "chamber" that's mounted on the block(couldn't get it off the block, just sprayed into it when I changed oil and let it drain well before refilling), it was really full of crude. This stopped the oil from endin' up in the air cleaner. It was a pain, but worth the effort! Hope this little bit of info helps and is what your lookin' for! Have a good weekend, Chuck
#3
10-13-2000, 11:22 AM
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Indianapolis
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Help with PCV tube on 2.0L
Thanks Chuck! I can count on you to answer my many questions! Ill be yankin on that PCV tube this weekend probably. Honestly I pulled the PCV off and I put my finger down the tube to find that the guy before me had dropped a washer down the hole. I fished it out with a bent hanger thinking my problems were over! Come to find that the entire tube seems to be full of this crap! This truck is going to be feeling great after I am done with the PCV!
About the brakes, the driver's side was locked up. It took me an hour or so to hammer the drums off, constantly having to adjust the self-adjuster to release the brakes every few hits. Anyway, I am replacing EVERYTHING back there that I can! I have one side done with new wheel cylinder, spring kit, pads, and a turned drum. The other side is waiting on a wheel cylinder (both sides had bad wheel cylinders too! one was leaking like a sive, and the other had only one arm that would operate). I think Ill probably crack the rear-end open change the fluid/gasket back there, and then dig into the front disks. Fun weekend!
To relieve some stress, the T/A and I are hitting the 1/4 mile track tonight. Im hoping for 12's with my new NITTO 555R drag radials!
Have a good weekend!
---------------------------------------
87 Ford Ranger 2.0L 2WD
98 Trans Am - 316RWHP 327RWTorque
About the brakes, the driver's side was locked up. It took me an hour or so to hammer the drums off, constantly having to adjust the self-adjuster to release the brakes every few hits. Anyway, I am replacing EVERYTHING back there that I can! I have one side done with new wheel cylinder, spring kit, pads, and a turned drum. The other side is waiting on a wheel cylinder (both sides had bad wheel cylinders too! one was leaking like a sive, and the other had only one arm that would operate). I think Ill probably crack the rear-end open change the fluid/gasket back there, and then dig into the front disks. Fun weekend!
To relieve some stress, the T/A and I are hitting the 1/4 mile track tonight. Im hoping for 12's with my new NITTO 555R drag radials!
Have a good weekend!
---------------------------------------
87 Ford Ranger 2.0L 2WD
98 Trans Am - 316RWHP 327RWTorque
