OK guys more advice needed suggest even the obvious please.

Got some advice a few weeks ago about instrment lights not working, found ground that was connected, yet still no lights.

Where I'm currently at: Reassembled everything connected.

Dash instruments connected, all new bulbs, not working.
Headlights working, no brights.
Running lights working front and rear.
Turn signal working drivers side front only.
Emergency flashers working front only.

Replaced rear tailight wiring with OEM like product from Mr. Mustang, connections are perfect no wiring required.
Replaced both flashers (I assume one was for emergency and other for turn?)

Where do I need to start troubleshooting from here, electrical is not really my strong suit.

Welcome all sugestions even the obvious ones may prompt some thoughts.
thanks guys

 

I'd start with your signal light switch under the column. Do you have a wiring diagragm of the truck? You should have one to start tracing wires. Anyway, You said only one signal actually works, Your lights are wired thru that switch. It's common for those switches to go bad. I used to sell alot of those in the 70's when I started in Ford parts. You could trace the wire feeding the dash lamps back to the light switch and see if you are getting power at the connector on the light switch. Use a voltmeter. For the headlamps, check the dimmer switch and see if you have power at the terminals. Test to see where the power comes in and see which one is getting power with the low beams are on. THen push the dimmer down and see if the other one gets power. If not, chances are the dimmer sw. may be bad.
I looked up the signal switch and came up with 2 different ones.

2wd truck C9TZ 13341-C
4wd C2TZ 13341-D

I found a bunch of places the stock the NOS Ford part.

Greene sales Cinci, Oh. 1-800-543-4959
King Obs Liberty, Ky 1-877-246-1111
Wesly Obs. Liberty, Ky 1-606-787-5293
Miller Obs. Vestal, Ny. 1-800-546-7278

These places listed have both switches. Get a wiring diagrahm for the truck and I'd even try to find the shop manuals for it.

Barry

 

Barry,
thanks for the reply and the advice, looking fora wiring diagram now, have seen them on e-bay from time to time from one of those reproduction companies.
Everything was working great before disassembly of the dash for painting, it may be simply not reassebled correctly, just not sure until I can get my hands on a wiring diagram.
I was a total paint job so not much was left put together, just out of curiosity, we replaced the boken turn signal cam, had to clip of old wires, re-connect new ones, is there a chance that one wire is switched? would that create this type of problem, the new cam had two red wires so we had no way of knowing which one to connect to which, I assumed it didn't matter?
thanks again
Brian


I've got a guy

 

Very much the case that if you replaced the whole turn signal unit, this could be causing the problems you are having with the turn signals and any problems with brake lights. The dash lights and high beam headlights have nothing to do with that in there. You gotta have a wiring diagram. I love mine more and more all the time. Hesitate to even try to help you till you have that diagram in your hands. The wiring is so complicated even in a 65, with stuff taped together it becomes unrecognisable unless you have a map.

 

Hey Bcwaack, I am pretty good with old Ford electrical. I just fixed a similar problem with my 66. Start with what was previously stated, with the turn signal unit. I have a spare if you need one. A lot of problems comes from unexperienced hands under the hood. When I first bought my truck it had speaker wire running as hot leads. Can you believe it! Ha. I thought I was going to go craze. Anyways a lot of times people cut wires and replace it with there own wires and forget to write down what color wire leads to what. I remember the orig color codes by heart well. Start with that. There is also a splitter under your dash that contols the power split to the rear tail lights and blinkers. It is black and is about two inches long. Corrosiaon starts in this and causes a whole mess of problems. Check that. Trace wires from dash to firewall and Fire wall to front and back. Note any change in wire colors on paper. In the fron of your truck behind the grill on the drivers side is a aluminum box that is a transfer terminal. Corrosion or mis wired wires can cause a problem here. Moisture in wires can cause a problem also. Email me back if ya need anything. Good luck, happy holidays and God Bless.
Mike

 

Here is a web site to get good, simple to understand wiring diagrams for your 65. www.classiccarwiring.com. Good Luck

 

James, wow, that website great I'm ordering one for mine. Electrical is not my strong suite, And my cab is completely bare , I'll need it. Ihave the reg. diag. but I like that one much better.
Charlie

 

Hey BC, I found this site awhile back, it might help you out some. Its called The Old Car Manual Project, www.tocmp.com. It has a lot of info for OLD vehicles of various makes. They have a wiring diagram for a '64 online that may give you some place to start. Sorry, I don't know how to link from there to here, but thought this might help. Al

 

I ordered from them also but be sure to order the 11x17 size because I am a senior type person myself and the eyesite is not what it use to be. On his web site he's also ofering large wall size too. I think a big wall size would be neat to have hanging on the garage wall. You will be happy with his products,

 

I have had a few of these trucks...my latest find, soon to be for sale is my 65 Ranger....weird thing is, the turn signals work fine up front...but its flip flopped in the rear...if I got left turn on, I got rt turn working in the rear....had a trailer harness with more wire then you could believe..

Hi beams...swap out another dimmer switch, Did you replace switches too...light switch for one as this controls dash lights too....when I got my old reliable 15 or so yrs ago, the dash lights were on and off intermittently at best....pulled switch....rheostat sping/contact fried...the spring had sprung plus the corrosion on the dash/dome light control which rides on the spring make a big difference.....

Barry...as for new turn signal switches, I do want a NOS one for my 65 2wd, but how in Gods name do you get the connector thru the tube ??? I am also wondering if the switches also got the horn wire and contact as well as the t/signal cam or ??? if you cant get the connectors thru the tube like several I have looked at, how do I carefully remove the connectors from the wires so I can reuse connectors....If ya want, drop me an email on it...

But id go to the wrecking yards and snag a light switch and dimmer switch and see how that helps with things...


cs65

 

CS65: Here is how you put in a new turn signal switch.

1. Note the position of each wire in the connector. (You are going to remove the wires from the connector, then pull the wires out.) It works best to draw a sketch, note where each wire is with respect to the alignment guides (so it oges in only 1 way) of the connector.

2. Remove each wire from the connector. Using a small pointed tool, prize the retaining tip of the wire's metal clip, and then pull the wire free. I have an old dental tool which works great for this.

3. DON'T PULL THE WIRES OUT YET.

4. Wrap a string around one wire. I also use electrical tape to keep it secure. Don't tie or tape all the wires together. Do just one.

5. Pull the wires out of the tube, feeding the string into the hole at the bottom.

6. Wrap all the new wire ends with the string and with electrical tape. Keep it as small and flat as possible.

7. Pull the wires back through the steering column tube with the string.

8. Using your diagram to indicate the proper sequence, slip the ends of the wires back into the connector. Gently tug on each one to ensure the retaining clip has properly sprung back into place.

This entire job shouldn't take more than a hour or two, if all you are replacing is the switch.

 

Banjopicker has it right. You don't get a new connector plug with the switch. It's a pain, but that's how you do it. Patience is the key. Follow his instructions. If you find a used one, plug it in at the bottom and try it. Don't want to do that job twice! The switch has the horn contacts and the cam.

Barry