What Do You People Think?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
What Do You People Think?
We have a truck at work that gets used for some towing (nothing HUGE), and snow plowing. It also hauls some stuff but not too much weight. My dad built a custom box for it and he measured some things wrong 
and it works fine when empty but when we put weight in it the box would rub on the tires. So, we took it down to our local welder guy (who REALLY knows what he is doing) and this is what he did:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=63521&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=63522&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=63523&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=63524&width=2
What do you think? He basically moved the rear shackle down which gave us about 3 inches of lift which is PERFECT. What are your thoughts on this preocedure? Thanks.
-Matt
P.S. Truck is an 87 F250 4x4.
and it works fine when empty but when we put weight in it the box would rub on the tires. So, we took it down to our local welder guy (who REALLY knows what he is doing) and this is what he did:https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=63521&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=63522&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=63523&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=63524&width=2
What do you think? He basically moved the rear shackle down which gave us about 3 inches of lift which is PERFECT. What are your thoughts on this preocedure? Thanks.
-Matt
P.S. Truck is an 87 F250 4x4.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
It's a little lighter than I would have built it but I imagine it'll work. Personally I would have used tubing or something else that's boxed in instead of angle iron (not sure that's what he used but at least what it looks like). This is how I made my extensions and I still cross braced the back: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=61873&width=0
Still, I don't think it'll be a problem. Just keep an eye on it that the lower portion there doesn't start to bend outward. If you're not hauling too much weight it'll probably hold just fine.
Still, I don't think it'll be a problem. Just keep an eye on it that the lower portion there doesn't start to bend outward. If you're not hauling too much weight it'll probably hold just fine.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 14,413
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
Yes, he was a welder and he did weld it. I will keep an eye on it but I don't think it should be a problem considering we don't carry a lot of weight very often. If it becomes a problem I will get him to add onto it to beef it up a bit.
What grade bolt is acceptable to use on that? I THINK he used grade 5. When I heard that I thought I should swap them to grade 8 but do think it is really necessary?
Not too bad of a deal though. He cut the old rivets off, jacked up the truck, welded in the new piece and put new bolts on for......... $100 CANADIAN! Well worth it IMHO.
-Matt
What grade bolt is acceptable to use on that? I THINK he used grade 5. When I heard that I thought I should swap them to grade 8 but do think it is really necessary?
Not too bad of a deal though. He cut the old rivets off, jacked up the truck, welded in the new piece and put new bolts on for......... $100 CANADIAN! Well worth it IMHO.
-Matt
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
Definitely upgrade those bolts to grade 8's. I don't know what kind of poundage you haul with that truck but if it's not too much it would have been far easier to just do a shackle flip. But the price he charged wasn't too bad and I like to overbuild for safety. 
Still, change those bolts. 5's should never be used in an application like this.
Still, change those bolts. 5's should never be used in an application like this.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by Beast12
Maybe I will get them chromed. More Bling! 
Chroming adds 50 HP to your engine and extra strength to the bolts. 
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Post Fiend
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
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Butt-Head
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From: Reed Point, MT
This is essentially what I'm going to do with mine...except:
1 BOLT the angle iron to the frame. I guess it's just the welder in me, but frames are not to be welded; especially the upper and lower edges (that run parallel to the gound). Also, welding leaves no "give" to flex the metal and fatiguing may result in cracks. However, since the frame was welded at the rear of the vehicle, not the center, it should be fine.
2. Put a cross-member or brace in there. With no support behind the shackle mount, flexing can occur, thus resulting in cracks.
One thing to consider though; How is the pinion angle now when loaded? Being that it's essentially a stock-height vehicle, your pinion may be pointing too far upward and cause a vibration at speed.
Just $.02....not meant to be mean. I've done this before on a truck. It's a cheap and easy way to fix problems/get a small lift. That's why I'm doing it again on my current project.
Cody
1 BOLT the angle iron to the frame. I guess it's just the welder in me, but frames are not to be welded; especially the upper and lower edges (that run parallel to the gound). Also, welding leaves no "give" to flex the metal and fatiguing may result in cracks. However, since the frame was welded at the rear of the vehicle, not the center, it should be fine.
2. Put a cross-member or brace in there. With no support behind the shackle mount, flexing can occur, thus resulting in cracks.
One thing to consider though; How is the pinion angle now when loaded? Being that it's essentially a stock-height vehicle, your pinion may be pointing too far upward and cause a vibration at speed.
Just $.02....not meant to be mean. I've done this before on a truck. It's a cheap and easy way to fix problems/get a small lift. That's why I'm doing it again on my current project.
Cody
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
No, I value your guys input, thats's why I asked.
I will be keeping an eye on this truck. I actually I to do a pre-trip (circle check) every time this truck goes out for work.
I was a little concerned about the angle as well. I notice no vibration so I should be good then, right? I was lifted about 2 1/2-3" so I should be good, but I will be watching it. Thanks!
-Matt
I will be keeping an eye on this truck. I actually I to do a pre-trip (circle check) every time this truck goes out for work.
I was a little concerned about the angle as well. I notice no vibration so I should be good then, right? I was lifted about 2 1/2-3" so I should be good, but I will be watching it. Thanks!
-Matt
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
That looks kind of weak at the bottom, but, since it appears the bottom bracket was welded in place I guess the only thing left is to run a cross member left to right that goes from the bottom of the bracket to the frame flange. If you are light on the bed weight it should not matter much if at all.
Ideally what should be done is to run a plate from the top of the frame to the bottom of where the shackle will mount and then a cross member from one shackle to the other that butts directly against the frame and to avoid welding the frame flanges.
You do this on the front too and then move the pad on the axle outwards as thick as the steel you have added. This makes it much stronger and gives you better control by moving the springs outwards on the axle a bit.
Ideally what should be done is to run a plate from the top of the frame to the bottom of where the shackle will mount and then a cross member from one shackle to the other that butts directly against the frame and to avoid welding the frame flanges.
You do this on the front too and then move the pad on the axle outwards as thick as the steel you have added. This makes it much stronger and gives you better control by moving the springs outwards on the axle a bit.
Post Fiend
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
1 BOLT the angle iron to the frame. I guess it's just the welder in me, but frames are not to be welded; especially the upper and lower edges (that run parallel to the gound). Also, welding leaves no "give" to flex the metal and fatiguing may result in cracks. However, since the frame was welded at the rear of the vehicle, not the center, it should be fine.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Coutts Canada
It's on the newer vehicles that welding should be avoided because of the multiple alloy metals that the big three have been using to strenghten/stiffin the frames of the newer vehicles, so welding on frames of the older trucks is fine, its just on the newer vehicles that it should be avoided unless necessary.
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