When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My '68 F250 seems to want to "drift" around the road some while driving, and I have a hard time keeping it in a straight line. I was just wondering what the 2 or 3 biggest issues could be?? I think I need to focus on the flexible rag joint, and possibly adjusting or tightening the steering gear. I would sure appreciate hearing what has helped anybody else out there to tighten up their steering to take the play out of it, and how you did it. Thanks!
I rebuilt a '70 front end with 250K miles on it, and here's what I found:
The biggest culprit was the tie rod end on the drag link. The ball had become loose on the shaft it's pressed onto. It could have just fallen out! The rubber bushings on the back of the radius rods were GONE! I don't mean worn out, they were missing! This enabled the axles to move forward and back over an inch. The rubber bushings in the axles weren't that bad, but I replaced 'em anyhow. If you ever take that mammoth Ford twin I-Beam front end apart, replace everything. The king pins had almost no wear, same with the tie rod ends. The steering box (power) itself also had very little wear; I put a kit in it and adjusted it according to directions. When we put it together and aligned it, it was like a new truck. If you're not into major surgery, it can be helpful to have someone turn the wheel a little back and forth while you observe at what point in the linkage the slop is. Then you can just fix the worst item(s).
if you look at the steering shaft in the engine compartment, there is a disc that acts as a universal joint right at the steering box. it also acts as a vibration damper. it is actually made of plastic or vinyl impregnated cloth. as far as being a dumb question...if you didn't know what it was, then you needed the answer, so how could it have been a stupid question?
one thing you guys missed was the shocks, if the shocks are shot it lets the front end bounce, [ yes a little bit will do it], and causes the the front to wander some. dont forget to change the shocks when you rebuild the front end, and use some good quality shocks.
thanks for reminding me, jim. I had a real bad thing happen due to bad shocks.
going around a really long high speed corner (interstate interchange) about 55 mph, with no sway bar at the time. the inside front tire started bouncing uncontrollably, I lost control of the turn, went straight across the grassy field and came to a very scarry halt about 10 feet from 70 mph+ traffic going perpendicular to my direction. man that had to be the scarriest event in all of my driving experiences.
Check the "Help" brand section at your local parts store for a generic rag joint. I replaced this after replacing all of the tie rods and ends, all bushings, the steering box/gear and the shocks. The $8 rag joint made the biggest difference. It is a little work to replace it.
it looks like all things coverd, hmmm did someone say wheel balancing will also play a part. I WOULD TIGHEN WROM gear first on steering box, check rag joint.. Check your manual on doing these things..
orich
Thanks! I was wondering whether or not the worm gear may need adjusting. The worm gear, rag joint, and checking the tie rod ends will be the next projects I do on the truck. I have already put new shocks on. I'll give you all an update when I have these projects done, and the results.
this such an ausom site. everything that was mentioned to correct your sterring
was what i did to correct mine. drives like a new truck (1968 f100 shortbed)
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.