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Brake Problems Revisited

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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 05:14 PM
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Smile Brake Problems Revisited

Folks:

I just joined today to see if others were having the same kinds of problems I was having with my brakes on my '00. Well, after doing a search I see that I'm not alone, as a matter of fact, looks like we are all in a very big boat.

Now that I've got an idea what to do about the problem, I thought I would ask now that some of you have had your new aftermarket rotors (A.R.T.) and pads on for awhile, did they fix the warping problem over the long haul?

Thanks,
Big Mike
'00 Limited (5 years old this month)
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 10:50 PM
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No i did that it will be back in a week

Myckel
 
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 07:01 PM
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On my 00 the original brakes lasted 80K, front rotors turned once at 60K. No towing 50% highway. Ford dealer just did 4 new rotors and pads, just under $700. Mine was June 2000 bulid date.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 01:47 PM
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I do a great deal of towing. I have a restored muscle car that I trailer to at least one show per year, as well as tow a trailer full of crew shells for my daughter's high school rowing team. Which has me towing a pretty heavy trailer every weekend, two to three pulls per weekend, from March through June. I also do way more city driving than highway, but do a fair amount of highway driving at least 5 times a year for vacations and fishing trips.

I had my brakes replaced three times under warranty. This was just new pads and turning of the rotors. When it came time for a forth out of warranty brake job, I complained bitterly to the general manager (not the service manager) of the dealership that there was clearly a problem with the brakes if I had to get them replaced three times in under 36,000 miles. The GM told me there was a problem that Ford identified with the pads that caused the poor performance of the rotors. I got a forth brake job at a greatly reduced rate with the new type pads and new rotors. I have gotten better performance, as in more than 12, 000 miles on this set, but the warping problem has returned. Bottom line, I don't think I'm going OEM on the fifth brake job. BTW, I have 74,500 on the clock now.

I'm hoping to hear from a few folks as to what they've done, and what has worked or not worked.

Big Mike
'00 Limited
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 01:51 PM
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Question

Myckel:

You did a brake job with aftermarket parts and the warping came back in a week? Were they the A.R.T. parts, or regular parts store; Wagner, Bendix, etc. parts?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 08:03 PM
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I do not tow but i have 60k and my rotors are garbage so i bought bear drilled rotors from tirerack and they feel like the car lost some weight it stops quicker and better
 
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 06:42 AM
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I've had my ART brakes for almost 30K miles and I still love them!

First, let me say that the Ford Service Manager that said that there was a problem with pads and that was causing the warped rotors is just full of crap! From the concensus on another forum, that cause of warped rotors is the over-torquing of the lug nuts. Ford change the torque specs several years ago, but most shops use air tools and pay little attention to the torque specs. I got 55K miles out of my original brakes without ever turning the rotors. But I wanted better brake performance because I regularly tow a 10k pound trailer. The ART brakes filled the bill. I highly recommend them. Just watch your torque.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rozett
First, let me say that the Ford Service Manager that said that there was a problem with pads and that was causing the warped rotors is just full of crap! [snip] Ford change the torque specs several years ago, but most shops use air tools and pay little attention to the torque specs. [snip] Just watch your torque.
Thanks for the reply, and I knew the guy was full of it. I didn't care because I got what I wanted in a cheaper repair bill. It's funny what some dealer employees say about problems or repairs. The thing I hate is being treated like you know nothing, you know, spoken to like your a two year old.

On the torpuing of the wheels, what did Ford change the torpue specs to?

Thanks,
Big Mike
'00 Limited (5 years old this month)
 
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 11:07 AM
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If my memory serves me correctly, the lug nut torque is 145-155 ft-lbs.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by zomowiec
I do not tow but i have 60k and my rotors are garbage so i bought bear drilled rotors from tirerack and they feel like the car lost some weight it stops quicker and better
Thanks for the reply. Are the Bear rotors comparable in price to the A.R.T. rotors, and what pads did you use?

Thanks,
Big Mike
'00 Limited (5 years old this month)
 
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 01:32 PM
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I put the powerslot rotors and hawk pads on an F250 I had, when I traded it in I put the oem stuff back on. Long story short I put the powerslot and pads on my X 2 years ago, I think I have about 50K miles on them. I check the wear at every rotation and they are still at about 75%. The big heavy X stops better and they are not warped.

I have look at and am doing some reserch on the Baer brake for the next X, as I have desided to sell this one.

Toyman
 
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 09:40 AM
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First, let me say that the Ford Service Manager that said that there was a problem with pads and that was causing the warped rotors is just full of crap


Hate to argue, but the service manager was correct in his statement. Working for another manufacture that also hase brake issues, pad compound can effect rotor wear and warp. However as you allready know lug nut torque is the most common culprit of this condition. Out of curiosity, how are you guys having your rotors surfaced????? If they are being done on an off car lathe that will also contribute to this condition. Have the rotors cut ON THE CAR, this will compensate for any runout in the bearing and hub assemblies, as well as truing the rotors. (yes brand new rotors have runout). As i have 20 techs working for me, and some refuse to use the "on car" lathe, we can see a significant difference in the return rate on this condition with "off car" vs "on car" surfacing. Hope this helps.
Good Luck, R.
 
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