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Anyone out there have any tips on breaking loose the bleeder screws on the wheel cylinders on my 53 Ford F600? I have soaked them in Kreen, Kroil and other penetrating oils and they feel like that trhey will twist off if I put any more pressure on them.
If you can't get them loose by the methods mentioned, chances are you'll need new ones. Heat is no good, as it will fry the rubber cups ,etc... and could be dangerous.You might try drilling them out and then a easy out. If it was my truck, I'd replace them.
When they were siezed on my '56 f600 I ended up twisting with vise-grips. I only broke one and ended up replacing that wheel cylinder anyways. I wish I knew a trick for you.
If you can get a socket or a box wrench on them, after a good soak, try light repeated tapping in the direction of loostening on the wrench with another metal wrench. I think there are times when older small "stuck" bolts become looser with the vibrations and gentle repeated taps. Could easily be just something I do to make myself feel better before I attempt a good twist, but it SEEMS like it helps.... (Can't hurt!)
I concur with applying pressure with a wrench and tapping in an attempt to 'vibrate' it loose. If that fails, I would do as previously prescribed and drill it out and try backing it out with an easyout.
This response is just going to add a little detail to the previous posts which outline the best methods of attempting to loosen frozen bleeder screws: Depending on how much time you are willing to spend on this, continue to apply penetrating oil and then give the end of the bleeder screw sharp raps with a small hammer. The idea is to shock the threads and disturb the rust. The end of the screw where it seats in the cylinder is probably rusted also, so a direct hit on the end of the screw might be beneficial. Use a socket wrench. When you attempt to turn the screw, try apply circular pressure only, no side pressure if possible. Do the oil and tap excersize as long as you can, every night until you either break it loose, twist it off, or order wheel cylinders.
If you have an O/A torch with a small tip then heat just the base of the screw until a dull red. Quench with PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. Then it should be easy to remove.
Truck shops have been using torches since before your F600 was built. Done right nothing gets ruined and the interior of the cylinder will be cooler than when that old truck is going down hill and braking!
the ones on my 54 were stuck tighter than h*ll too, and i found a little six point box end wrench, and with a little tapping and fiddling with it....little liquid wrench, all of the sudden it popped, and out it started coming....had to work it back and forth of course, to get the threads somewhat clean.....but eventually it came out, took the airhose to it and cleaned them all, and reused every one of them....friends got a 59 lincoln continental, did the same thing to it....2 for 2 is good odds
Always use a tight fitting 6 pt box, fitting or socket wrench, 12 point wrenches will round them off for sure. Replace them with new ones with a little antiseize on the threads to prevent future issues. Ran into that problem a lot when I lived in Buffalo. We would use heat as a last resort, but I can't remember ever breaking one off.
I have gotten smaller parts like that loose by putting them in a container of solvent. Usually parts cleaner and letting them soak a few days. If you are not taking yours off this will not do you much good.