150 psi Air Lines
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 483
Likes: 1
It could be significant on paper or to a large industrial user, to the homeowner how much is it going to boil down to,,, 25 cents a month tops ? If he isnt enough above his threshold the comp is going to come on immediately and be below 90 with any volume use, going to be critical with small compressors and with any amount of hose out the reg may say 90 at the beginning of the hose but 50 ft later at the tool it doesnt. If he had 3 ft of hose it would be different. We usually are runnng 120 at the reg with 50 ft of 3/8, the tools dont make the power unless we do. As you know air isnt effecient anyway, we use it because it works well. Its probably 6 times the cost + the equipment compared to running electric. If you want to be cheap run electric tools.
Last edited by Sberry27; Dec 18, 2004 at 10:30 AM.
Tuned
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
From: a little S/E of Nome
Further to my answer...
One of the reasons why I said over 25 ft was, the first 25 ft of pipe is usually the most troublesome area in an air system, this is where air/water will condense because of the heat given off during compressing. If you elevate within the first 25 ft from the compressor vertically (60 - 90 deg. ); water will fall out of the air condense on the cooler outside of the pipe and run down to a drain leg at the bottom. 1 1/2 inch pipe does this very nicely and is low cost to consumer. Yes, you could go with dryers, etc. , but your talking buck$.
If the originator of the question would come back and expand on his question and the information that he now has in front of him based on the replies that he received so far then you could develve into the solution more.
I would rely more on the safety aspect and over build rather than under build. Sure, you can push air through squirrel gut if you wanted to but would it surfice your end result?? Pushing air through M type copper is like tossing a live grenade back and forth, you just hope it isn't in your hands when it goes off. A good rule of thumb to use is, burst pressure of at least 5 - 10 TIMES maximum line pressure. BE SAFE!
If the originator of the question would come back and expand on his question and the information that he now has in front of him based on the replies that he received so far then you could develve into the solution more.
I would rely more on the safety aspect and over build rather than under build. Sure, you can push air through squirrel gut if you wanted to but would it surfice your end result?? Pushing air through M type copper is like tossing a live grenade back and forth, you just hope it isn't in your hands when it goes off. A good rule of thumb to use is, burst pressure of at least 5 - 10 TIMES maximum line pressure. BE SAFE!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 20
I"d use "L" copper and copper refrigeration fittings, long sweep 90*, no center slip couplings, stay away from 45*. Braze the lines, and let the copper cool on its own, so it will harden back up. Wouldn't use lesser copper grades because you have the pulsation from the compressor stressing the lines. Remember "L" is sold in O.D. dimensions, 1/2" will be 5/8", 3/4" will be 7/8", and 1" will be 1 1/8", from a refrigeration supply.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,321
Likes: 2
From: MI
Originally Posted by Torque1st
Those were some great charts, thanks for the data. A number of users have said the M-type was not good for airlines but it looks to be OK according to those charts unless someone can come up with prohibitions. Of course the M-type sold at the home box stores may be the problem... -hehe! The solder used looks like a limiting factor also. The 50/50 tin lead derated the pressure but the other solders looked OK.
