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Re-title: Electrical problems

Old Dec 16, 2004 | 12:24 AM
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Re-title: Electrical problems

I drove to my girlfriend's house(60 miles) today and when i exited the freeway i was waiting at a stoplight, i noticed that my stereo clock was a little dim.....a couple seconds later my ABS light turned on........so at the next stoplight i turn my car off to reset the abs then when i tried to turn it back on, all i got was CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK....LIKE THE BATT WAS DEAD....i recently installed a viper 790xv remote start alarm in my truck. thinking that maybe one of the wires may have shorted or something, i inspected and nothing.....no shorts...so i pulled out the alarm completely! still same thing...i can get a jump and let it sit, but when i turn the car off and try to start it again it clicks......it sounds like the batt is shorting out somewhere but i don't know, couldn't find anything......any help?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 12:28 AM
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alternator, the truck is running off the battery, so when the battery dies(your lights dimming) the truck dies, the alternator isnt making any juice
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 12:37 AM
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if the alt isn't making any juice, then how is the car running after a jump, but when i stop the car and try to start it again it doesn't start?

it is running off the alt. when the truck is on it will start dimming(dome, gauges, etc.) but if i rev it a little, they will get bright again.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 01:05 AM
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its not completely dead, just dying, it sounds like it has just enough life to power the bare essentials, but not charge the battery, the faster you spin and alt the more power it makes, so when you rev it up, you get more light.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 02:09 AM
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Battery could be toast as well. That in combination with a bad alternator will produce those symptoms, especially if you are using headlights, etc.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 08:41 AM
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I would say your battery is definitely bad. Get the alternator tested before buying a new one. No reason to replace something that might still be working fine.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 09:15 AM
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Hey Guys,
I would suspect the battery first, the charge system uses the battery as a kind of voltage stabalizer and supply even when the truck is running. The alternator voltage and amperage will vary greatly with engine rpm and electrical load. The battery is needed to kind of smooth out the available voltage/amperage supply. Replace the battery first then have the charge system checked. The alternator is more than likely ok. DO NOT TEST THE ALTERNATOR WITH A BAD BATTERY!!!
Good luck, R.
 

Last edited by a12play12; Dec 16, 2004 at 09:16 AM. Reason: SPELLING ERROR
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 02:41 AM
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well i got a yellow top optima today. i threw it in there and it worked. i am a little curious though because i heard optima batteries are able to discharge fully without harming the batt. if this is so, then is there a way to determine which is bad(batt or alt)?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 08:08 AM
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Measure the voltage at the batt should be 14.1 to 14.6...truck running.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 11:12 PM
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so if i get the 14v reading then the alt is good?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 11:25 PM
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Generally yes and rev it up it shouldn't go out of spec.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 10:09 PM
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just got home(don't drive my truck for work) after a cold day, i started up my truck and tested voltage = 12.5-12.9..so i have a bad alt huh? how is this possible. i have an 02 f250 crew cab......
 
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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 12:21 AM
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Yup Could be just the regulator or brushes pull it out and bring it to a shop that rebuilds them.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 12:48 AM
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i am planning on running major audio/video in my truck so i will probably get one of those 200A ones. quick question though....how is my truck gonna run, i mean since the alt killed my first batt, i should definitely get a alt soon huh?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 07:48 AM
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I wouldn't leave the yard. The old battery just needs to be charged...When killed like that.
 
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