engine code 32: EGR valve
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9
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From: Austin, TX
engine code 32: EGR valve
Hello,
New member here. I've read a lot of the posts on EGR probs here. Lots of great info there. None, that I found, specifically address code 32, though.
'88 full size Bronco, .302 V8, EFI, automatic trans, 4WD
Few weeks ago, I was getting codes 32 and 41, and the engine was surging at idle. Took the EGR valve off and squirted valve and throttle body with B-12 Chemtool a few times. Was afraid to stick anything up in there to clean it. Replaced it and it hasn't surged at idle since. But starting yesterday, the same codes have started popping up again.
Other symptoms that may or may not be related to EGR valve:
- exhaust smells rich
- poor gas mileage
- I've owned this Bronco for 4 months. Most of the time, I have to turn the ignition twice to get the thing to start. First try it just cranks, second time it fires right up. There are 2 exceptions. First, it will start right back up for the first few minutes after it's been turned off. Second, it seems to like starting right up on cold mornings when it's been sitting all night.
Any advice on what to look for/test is appreciated.
Ray
New member here. I've read a lot of the posts on EGR probs here. Lots of great info there. None, that I found, specifically address code 32, though.
'88 full size Bronco, .302 V8, EFI, automatic trans, 4WD
Few weeks ago, I was getting codes 32 and 41, and the engine was surging at idle. Took the EGR valve off and squirted valve and throttle body with B-12 Chemtool a few times. Was afraid to stick anything up in there to clean it. Replaced it and it hasn't surged at idle since. But starting yesterday, the same codes have started popping up again.
Other symptoms that may or may not be related to EGR valve:
- exhaust smells rich
- poor gas mileage
- I've owned this Bronco for 4 months. Most of the time, I have to turn the ignition twice to get the thing to start. First try it just cranks, second time it fires right up. There are 2 exceptions. First, it will start right back up for the first few minutes after it's been turned off. Second, it seems to like starting right up on cold mornings when it's been sitting all night.
Any advice on what to look for/test is appreciated.
Ray
Last edited by austinbronco; Dec 15, 2004 at 12:44 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
your egr valve is probably bad, also your O2 sensor may need replacing as well. hows the temp gauge reading. if your motor is not warming up all the way it will also cause a rich condition. may also need a tune up with new plugs,cap/rotor, wires . also check the timing should be set at 10*btdc with spout connector removed. if you do these things, disconnect the battery afterwards for about 15mins, then reconnnect and drive for an hour in various conditions. like hwy, city and wot in short spurts. this will allow the ecu to relearn and run better.
good luck
good luck
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 99
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I went through the same thing with my '90 5.0 Mustang -- same symptoms and same codes.
It took a while, but I eventually traced it to a vacuum leak -- the solenoid that controls the EGR valve (can't rememebr the name of it at the moment)was leaking vacuum. I also found that the TAB (thermactor air bypass) solenoid was leaking too.
You're getting code 32 because the EGR is not opening as much as the computer is telling it to open. You're getting the code 41 because the vacuum leak is causing the engine to run lean -- the O2 sensor is picking up the lean condition.
To check the solenoids, remove them from the engine and pump them up with a 'mitey-vac' hand vacuum pump. You'll know if its leaking.
It took a while, but I eventually traced it to a vacuum leak -- the solenoid that controls the EGR valve (can't rememebr the name of it at the moment)was leaking vacuum. I also found that the TAB (thermactor air bypass) solenoid was leaking too.
You're getting code 32 because the EGR is not opening as much as the computer is telling it to open. You're getting the code 41 because the vacuum leak is causing the engine to run lean -- the O2 sensor is picking up the lean condition.
To check the solenoids, remove them from the engine and pump them up with a 'mitey-vac' hand vacuum pump. You'll know if its leaking.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Temp gauge never reads more than a quarter up the meter. I'm not sure the gauge works properly though. In the summer, it was using up radiator coolant, but it never read hot.
Plugs and wires are new. Haven't messed with the rotor/cap yet. They're not cracked or anything. But I do plan on replacing them soon.
I got a Mityvac pump today and removed the EGR solenoid. Attached the pump to the lower port(not sure if that's the right one to connect to) and pumped it, but I'm not sure what I'm supposed to notice. Didn't feel any vacuum or push at the upper port.
Plugs and wires are new. Haven't messed with the rotor/cap yet. They're not cracked or anything. But I do plan on replacing them soon.
I got a Mityvac pump today and removed the EGR solenoid. Attached the pump to the lower port(not sure if that's the right one to connect to) and pumped it, but I'm not sure what I'm supposed to notice. Didn't feel any vacuum or push at the upper port.
