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If i only drove my fe once & awhile how often would i need to adj. my valve's mileage wise & cam shaft to use ? 10.5 to 1 Alm. head's 390 to 410 using a 428 crank rpm intake eld. carb. c-6 trans. 3.70 rear 65 cc sb Don
Hyd. cam now, but I might go to solid it depend's on how long I can run it be for it has to be adj. ? It will have adj. rocker's when rebuilding it eather or hyd. , or solid lifter camshaft. I have had the truck 1 Year Dec.10th , & have only driven it 100 mile's aprox. after I brought it home from Alabama airport . Question other than adj . valve's any advantage's to running it I would like to run a faily good size camshaft. that work's !!! Any input is much thanked , Don
Go with a hydraulic adjustable set up, since you are planning a cam swap. You should be able to drive it without adjustment for many years, especially at 100 miles/year...
Now it dies unless I have a really high idle speed. Kind of embarrassing last time I filled it up with gas. It chirpped the tires when when I put it into drive and gave everyone a real concerned look on their faces.
My cam number in in the signature.
Also, I wouldn't go with solid lifters. They are noisy. They make it sound like something is wrong with the valve train. I forget the exact numbers, but if I remember right, Crane recomended 0.023 cold clearance, and I took it to 0.018. That took care of at least half of the noise and I haven't burned a valve yet.
Good luck and please go a little more conservative than I did.
I'm hoping to go with at least 2,500 stall in my ride I think any thing higher would be not to streetable or pratical for a ride that is bad *ss or driven long distances .
Great thought. I know the HOT ROD Magazine build-up a couple of years ago caused some controversy on this site, but it was hard to argue with their hp and tq numbers.
Originally Posted by gtex
Consider a Hydraulic Roller if you have the funds. It can give you some big cam perfomance, with less idle and vacuum issues and less adjusting.
You know. I used to think that it was true that high stall speed let you idle at a higher rpm. It makes sense. But the I then read a lot of opinions that say the high stall speed is mainly for torque multiplication and acceleration.
I have no first hand experience, so I don't realy know. Are there any good reading materials put out by the TC manufacturers?
Ok , I had a boss 351 mustang w/C-6 trans Goddies were all cyl's sleeved , block studed, mains & cyl heads , roller cam very large cam 12.5 to 1 forged pistons balanced , 2 & 1/4 tubes & 3"1/2 collector w true 3500 stall I took it back every time till thay got it right at 3500 stall. & yes it idled at 1850rpm It's the only way it would idle.& as for solid camshafts I did have a 67 long wheel base chevy. van with a 327/365 hp engine 400 turbo w/solid lifters it screamed would pull the frt. wheels going in to 2nd when I drag raced it . But it yes driven daily 75 miles 5 days a week.
I have heard that if you drive a solid lifter cammed vehicle regularly (by regularly I mean often) your valves won't need adjusted. So like a daily driver. If it sits for extended periods of time then that is when you have to start adjusting valves.