ford 72 brake light
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: Chicagoland Metro area
I just did my brakes and finished up this weekend so I just went through this process. When I bled the brakes, the light did not go off. That means the little electrical switch in your brakes system still senses a hydraulic pressure (brake line pressure) imbalance. All I had to do was to bleed the front brakes again and just have your helper press slightly on the brake pedal until you have pushed enough fluid out to get the light to go off. If bleeding the fronts doesn't get it, try the backs. Again, once you have bled the whole system, just apply slight pressure to one system (front or back) until the light goes out, then close the bleed valve and your done. This is what worked for me.
Dave
Dave
all alone in the world
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,038
Likes: 1
From: oklahoma
i think there is a plunger switch under the wire on the equilizer block. pull the wire off and try pushing in on the plunger. it is designed to do this if one end or the other has a loss of pressure, and it will do it when you are bleeding the brakes also
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Bridgeville,CA
F250m Camper has the right idea. Actually you both do. The switch has to be "centralized" by reducing pressure on the side oposite to the one that "failed". In the case of the rebuild you don't know which side it decided failed so just do like F250 camper says and it should go off.
