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The only difference between the 9833 and 9835 is the latter's animated high-resolution BioLite display. The 9833 just has a simple dot matrix display. Whether the "coolness" of the BioLite display justifies the extra cost is a matter of opinion.
I am just shocked with people on ebay, I see this unit for $300(including S&H) and there are 7 people bidding on the same item USED for $275 (including S&H) with 7 days still left!!!
and this is true with a number of items, the used ones go for $10-20 less than NEW...Granted they are "Like-New" but still, why take the chance to save $20(half a tank of gas)?WHAT AM I MISSING HERE???
It's just part of the madness that normally occurs on eBay. I actually have first hand experience in this... I recently auctioned an Alpine 9811 which I paid $250 new and used for a year. The buyer won my auction for $210, even though new in the box units were available for $220 from other sellers. I had similar results with 2 other head units I've sold on eBay. It could be that I have perfect feedback and my auction descriptions are very thorough with clear pictures of the item.
Last edited by kontai69; Dec 12, 2004 at 11:47 PM.
I have a watch to look at anyways. I don't buy a great HU on the way the clock looks to start with.
I like the EQ setup, It keeps peeps from screwing my settings up.
Your right, So many people want the 9833 and 9835 they are keeping there value, Even used ones. They are in my option the best value today and down the road. I did read the book cause I needed to know how to control the M501 Amp from the head unit. You will not get bored after using it for a week or two like most others. Even without a amp it was putting some sound out with the V-Drive. Alpine under rates it output cause I checked it with my meters. One reason you will see more CEA units. The ones that don't are the truth stretchers that lie about there Specs. or make you have to dig to get at the real one.
Also if you need to call tech support about a clock or EQ setup learn to read. This unit requires someone with at least a 80 IQ to use. It has more then just a bass and treble **** to set tone. This is not a factory radio with a amp stuck on it.
The sound these units put out are first rate for car audio. You can set so many things to make up for speaker location, Even without setting my gains I could not get it too clip at full volume to set the amps up.
Just speaking from personal experience, the mark up at bestbuy is rediculous. About a year ago, I bought a pair of Rockford Fosgate 6 x 9's with the help of a buddy. The listed price was $139.00 and I paid $32.00. Plus, I got the extended warrenty for $2.00. The employee is something like 10% over cost. It might be in The Truck's best interest to see what his friend can do for him.
i havent really looked into it a whole lot, just heard about good prices, but long time for them to ship, i have no idea what package would fit me best, they have too many options and i no little about each...any reccomendations?
I’ve heard a lot of complaints about the site, but its the only one that can compete with ebay...expensive shipping too, but the price is so low guess it doesn’t matter. If I get a 9835 there its $400, ebay its $380...not sure what im gona do yet...
btw, this it obviously a "newbee" question, but what exactly is a tweeter? I guess its just a small speaker? Not sure exactly the point of them though...help?
I was talking to a friend about car speakers the other day and he told me a story that his friend installed some stuff for him and it drained his battery a lot, and messed up the alternator. Anyone else have a similar problem, with low battery’s? He told me to pay the extra money to get it installed by a professional, what do you guys think? Any idea how much it would cost? (I have NO clue on the pricing, but assume its expensive)
Installing it is not hard, It just takes a good planing. If you can do basic mechanic work you shouls be ok.
Tweeters are the Highs you hear. Those little taps that come off a symbol. You need them to fill the whole range from 20hz~30Khz.
The only way it drains your battery is if you leave it on for hours without starting it. If you have a bad battery it could drain faster. Just remember that you will need to upgrade your Alternator when you start adding amps. So wire your primary fuse with number 4 and use a 60 amp fuse to start. Then add a distribution block that can hold fuses for each unit. Most have 1~3 inputs for number 4 ga and four outputs for 8 ga.
You will also need Two battery post clamps for the wiring. I use Hooker XBCP2's on my stuff. There clean looking, Low profile, and have a 8ga hole for the factory ground and hot that is on the cables. Don't forget ring terminals and heat shrink. I solder all the ends and then heat shrink them twice.
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