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I did a search and found a bunch of info....but I cleaned all of my battery terminals.....checked the VSS on the rear axle and cleaned it....Also pulled the Tach sensor and cleaned it...no bare wires.....checked the fuses under the hood...etc. I also tried to check the tach sensor with a ohm meter and couldn't get the meter to get a reading of any sort....The tach lays on zero when running but as soon as I give it throttle it goes up. The light comes on as soon as the tach drops to zero and goes off as soon as I give it throttle.....Any ideas???? I just bought the truck and it has this issue. It does have a lot of miles on it but it looks to be well maintained... Any other suggestions before I go to the dealer and uy a tach sensor? Any help would be appreciated.
You must be getting some nasty shifting going on with the E4OD and the tach not working. Get that sender changed ASAP since you got no ohm reading across the pins.
I check the FIPL Sensor and it was 1.2-1.4 at idle with the key on(engine not running) I adjusted it to 1.05 but it only goes to 2.38 at about mid throttle then I lose all voltage after that....any ideas? Sounds like a bad sensor? It is the gray one not the black one.
Mike
Last edited by Njsporty; Dec 12, 2004 at 01:19 PM.
Loosing all voltage at that point is definitely not right, dead spots are usually hard to capture without a very good meter. Does sound like a bad sensor.
Losing voltage halfway through is definatley not correct.
If your perfomring the test correctly, or as is the general concensus here on this board then get that sensor replaced (FIPL).
Is the MLPS the upgraded version? A stock '92 e4od would have the first version of that sensor.
I could not get a reading on my tach sensor either.... tried 2 different ones.
Also, have you cleared the stored codes? If you don't clear those, the truck will still think it has a tranny issue, or a FIPL issue.
Check and clear the codes after every change (adjustment).
Hard faults go away when you fix them. The memory codes ( "soft faults' ) can be erased by disconnecting the battery, using a scan tool and "clearing memory codes", or they will go away on there own after a certain number ( 40 or 80 depend on the model year ) of drive cycles, assuming that the intermittent running problem does not reoccur.
Summary of codes types.
Hard faults - problem present at the time the Key On Engine Off
( KOEO ) SelfTest is run.
Continuous Memory codes - occured while the vehicle was operating and may stll be there. If it is still there you may have the same code in both areas.
Engine Running Codes ( Key On Engine Running, KOER ) occur during the KOER Self Test. They will disappear when fixed.
Well here's an update......Changed the FIPL sensor......adjusted voltage.....Went to local dealer and got my tach sensor.........Everything is working properly so far......One quick question.....When does the converter normally lock up? Seems to lock-up really early.