EPN, no I didn't bother to check the new TPS for voltage. But it didn't change anything so I just put my old one back on. Each time I switched the TPS or cleaned parts I disconnected the battery. Still no luck. You think I should put synthetic in the trans?

 

I think there may be an issue with the wiring going between the computer and the TPS. The voltages aren't what they should be, and since a new one didn't fix the problem, it is likely not the TPS itself, but the wiring. Have you tried pulling the codes recently? I don't think synthetic is a necessity at this point - figure out what the truck is doing, and once that is fixed, then think about going to synthetic.

 

EPN, ok I'll wait on the synthetic. That's what I was thinking. I was thinking about pulling codes, but there isn't any check engine lights on. So, will there still possibly be any codes?

 

It is possible for codes to be set and the computer not turn on the light. Try pulling the codes and see what comes up.

 

Will do, I'll post back asap.

 

Still haven't pulled any codes yet....... but add a new problem to the list. Irratic idling. Up and down, up and down between 700-900. Then, say if I'm going along in 3rd gear and go to slow down, apply brakes, and let it wind down til about 1500rpm, I push in clutch, and the rpms go down to about 1000 then jump up to about 1200 and sit there revving for about 6secs until it realizes I'm not doing anything but coasting with the clutch in.

Could it be anything simple, plug gap, bad wires? I pulled one plug the other day (#3 I believe), it's burning perfectly tan, no sut, and .035 gap.

I just bought a Chilton manual. I bought a Haynes and did not like it at all, took it back. It was '80-96, and had bronco II's, 4 bangers, V6's, carbs all that crap that I do not need or like to hunt through to find what I do need. The Chilton is 87-96, f150-350 only. Much nicer.

 

Talking to a mechanic acquaintance he thinks the trans syncro is gone. I believe that to be true, but not worried. I'm more concerned with the erratic motor problems. He thinks that the heads and intake are gummed up and says he has a new machine that cleans out that stuff. $160, no guarantee but says it'll help regardless of fixing the problem or not. He said, that my symptoms are that of gummed up stuff. Saying that the injectors spray fuel on the gum and it sticks to it, and as it heats up it gives the motor more gas than it needs, causing my problems, and poor gas mileage. Which I have both. Anyway, does that sound about right, and is it worth the money? I figure if I pulled off the intake and head to clean I'd have to buy new gaskets and such, and would have lots of time and some dough into it. Any ideas anyone?

 

[QUOTE=ceetwarrior]I have this problem with my '94 f150 (300-6, 5-speed 78,000mi), and it's about driving me insane. Every few shifts into 3rd gear the engine doesn't rev down when I push in the clutch so when I shift it grabs it into gear and GRINDS really harsh. Even if I shift really slow, which I have been doing since this problem has been happening.

Is it my clutch? Is it not engauging and needs adjustment?

I was giving a Airaid throttle body spacer and I installed it. I couldn't tell much difference in performance but I wonder if that has something to do with the not motor revving down when I go to shift?

What do you guys think? [/QUOTE


HI , USE TO KNOW THE FEELING PRETTY WELL FOR OVER THREE YEARS I DELT WITH THE PROBLEM AND NO ONE EVER THOUGHT TO CHECK THE TRUCKS BASE IDLE SPEED. BUT ONE DAY I CHECKED THE BASE IDLE AND IT WAS TURNED DOWN TO 450 RPM'S/ ITS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE SERVICEABLE BUT A PREVIOUS SHOP MUST OF TURNED IT DOWN WHEN IT WAS REALLY AN " IAC " PROBLEM. BECUASE WHEN YOU PUSH THE CLUTCH IN, THE " IAC" OPNES AND RACES THE ENGINE TO KEEP IT FROM STALLING IF THE IDLE IS NOT CORRECT. AND BY THE WAY I DID PUT SYNTHETICS ( MOBIL 1 ) IN THE ENG., TRANS, AND TRANSFER CASE WITHE NOTICEABLE IMPROVMENT. THE BASE IDLE ON MY 90 F250 4WD ,5.0 5SPD SHOULD BE 700 RPM'S+-25 SO WHAT IM TRYING TO SAY IS CHECK TO SEE IF IT( THE IDLE SCREW ) MOVED DURING THE SPACER JOB ?????

PS. I TOO HAD THE GRIND PROBLEM FOR TWO YEARS AND JUST DELT WITH IT BY PUT THE TRANS IN A HIGHER GEAR FIRST( WHEN AT A STOP OR LIGHT ) TO SLOW THE SPINNING OF THE ENGINE DOWN ... IT WOUND UP BEING THE CLUTCHES MASTER CYLENDER IS THE FLUID REALLY GRAY IN COLOR?

 

Very good classicf250! BUT!.... My truck already idles at 700-800 and I have not touched the screw. I can push in the clutch all I want at idle and it stays the same.

Thanks for the info on the synthetic, I figure that when I get the motor problem fixed I will put good oil in the trans to prolong it's piece of crap existance.

My clutch fill spout was low on fluid, then I added some more. Could it be possible to have air in the clutch line?

 

Just because the truck doesn't have a check engine light, doesn't mean there arn't engine codes. You should check the computer codes to figure out what's causing the engine to run weird.

Like the others mentioned, it shouldn't grind regardless of the engine's RPM, it's the vehicle speed that determines if it grinds or not more than the RPM. You can't shift into 1st at 50 mph, but you can shift into 1st at 5000 rpm going 5 mph....

The Mazda is a good quality transmission, I'd say just as good as many other transmissions out there....it's just that it's not as strong when beating it up.

 

Alright, dammit. I'm trying to aviod pulling the codes as it seems hard to do.

 

There is a bleeder screw near the clutch line on the trans. But the not getting it into gear was the clutch master cylinder for my truck, with lower miles the trans should be okay unless it was abused? gravity bleed the clutch master cylinder and see.. was this a problem before the spacer project ?

 

Classic, I'll check the bleeder today. I don't remember this being a problem before the spacer. But I took it off in hopes of fixing the problem, no go. I can't even tell a power gain with or without it. This trans hasn't been abused, but it sure is rough shifting and such. I'm hoping the synthetic will fix that after I find the the other problem.

 

Update again: took the truck to a mechanic buddy on Friday and he drove it and drove it and drove it some more. He thinks that there's nothing really wrong with my truck but does think that part of my syncro is GONE and I'm only hitting it certain times. Example being, like a chipped tooth on a starter, you may not hit it but 1 outa 20 starts. About the idle, he thinks maybe I could try to replace the IAC, but doesn't think I should start wasting money on parts trying to find the problem. We also found out that whenever we floored the throttle at about 1500rpm then revved til about 3000 then shifted, it would grind ALMOST ALL THE TIME. But yet, if we didn't totally floor the throttle, and still went to 3000rpm it wouldn't grind. Odd. No other leads.

I looked for a bleeder on my trans, did not come up with anything. See picture... is that where the bleeder is??

We tried to pull codes (not sure if we did it or not) but did not come up with anything either.

I went ahead and filled my trans/tcase with Mobil 1 Full synthetic ATF. Test drive will be later tonight. Check out the picture of my drain plug!! Look at all that crud and shavings, not good.

One last thing, in the 3rd picture of my 4wd shifter linkage, is that oil normal? We don't think it's anything to worry about, buuuut.... it is an oil leak





Now where do I stand guys?