I am sure you are all dying to hear this chapter of my story so here goes.

Well after getting a new sensor from transfercase.com, the saga continues.

During this repair adventure I have also found a leaking break line, which lead to finding that my brake shoes were almost down to metal. Of course when I started to bleed the lines the wheel cylinder bleeders were rusted, so now I have new wheel cylinders! Not that I want to get off on a bunny trail, but now my brake and ABS lights are both on. I still need to blead out the front brake lines but don't want to twist off or mess up the front bleed screws. Right now I am soaking them for a while. I might even run down to a local repair shop to see if I can get a hand by using their tool to bleed the ABS the way the manual wants it done.

Back to the EAWD problem . . . . I tested a little bit ago and the 4wd does not work with the new sensor.

So now I need to find out about the control module. I would like to know if someone has a recomend on where to get one. I will do some more testing, as described by below, just to make sure all my connections are good.

 

As far as the ABS light coming on, I had the exact same thing happen to me when I was bleeding the brakes after doing a brake job. After replacing an ABS switch on the master cyclinder, and not fixing the problem, I found that there is a shuttle valve on the lower side of the master cyclinder that stuck, causing the ABS light. You'll find it right behind the switch. I took it apart, and gave it a good cleaning, and has been working fine since.

I work on aircraft, not autos for a living, so I may not have all the correct names for these items. Hope this helps though.

For your AWD control module, they are plentiful at the auto salvage yards. If you can find a "U-pull-it" type place, you will save yourself some $$.

 

The ABS light business usually appears when you bleed the brake too fast. What happens is that the car has a safety feature which would shut off fluid to the rear brakes if there is a sudden flux of fluid to the rear. This is done so that you would still have the front brakes if the rear wheel cylinders develop a massive leak. Try to open the bleed screw on one of the rear wheel cylinder and step on the brake, I am quite sure you would have very little outflow since it's shut down.

You can try to clean up the valve like B2trausch said. Once you have flow to the rear cylinders, try to bleed it more gently. Open the bleed valve and ask someone to depress the brake pedal very slowly, then close it. Don't pump the brakes like one would normally do on a sane car.

If that doesn't work, take it to a shop and have them pressure bleed it. That would overcome the valve and once the pressure equalizes, the valve would return to normal by itself.

Good luck

 

Copper_90680, you describe exaclty what happened, now that I know. I had help to bleed the brakes and had them pump the brakes like I would normally have someone do. I had not read anywhere that just bleeding them slowly, without pumping, would have allowed me to bleed them.

I don't know that the valve is stuck now, but is taking it apart the only way to get it to move back?

 

If you have access to power bleeding equipments, do that and the valve should return to normal. If not, you'll have to take the valve apart.

Good luck

 

Both items, AWD and the brakes!.

I followed copper's very detailed instructions on checking the electronics (TC, sensors, and wiring) When I put everything back together and did a test drive the TC was functioning properly!

I did take the bleeder valve apart and put it back together and both the ABS light and brake light are off like they are supposed to be!

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!

 

WOW Great thread, covers 2 problems that I am having! Just one question. Is the wireing connector on my 93 the same as the one that was linked to for a 92.

I will remeber to look here first, next time I have a problem.

 

Yes, the wiring should be the same.