WHAT !!!!!!! give up the fine sounding Muntz 4 track ??? But how, oh how will I listen to " Cowliga"

 

OK, I'm going to launch two threads. I don't want to dominate the entire board with audio threads. Lets start with install techniques thread, and general accepted audio concepts.

 

Homespun is right, it would be best if we police ourselves and keep the brand flaming to a minimum. I know I intend to avoid making brand bashing statements as much as possible.

Thanks Dewayne, I appreciate that. Especially since I installed mine in the truck and within a few days several people stated in a thread that the very brand I had used was "junk." I'm looking forward to this thread and predict that it will be so popular that it will eventually become a sticky. John

PS: My front speakers are 6" Pioneers (free from a car show raffle) Rear speakers, 5x7 Pioneers ($20 with Gift cert. from car show raffle). Stereo unit is Sony Xplode ($119 on sale at Circuit City). It's not high priced, but it does the job!

 

I've always been rather partial to Craig equipment myself.

I think that the acoustical and install issues adequately justify keeping this discussion on this forum. However, I would like to see a thread dedicated to us pre 1956 guys with 6 volt systems. We have some entirely unique issues that I do not forsee will be addressed in the threads sofar proposed. Such as

• I figure my generator might be able to keep up with maybe a 10 amp current draw at the most, about 60 watts. Subwoofers are probably out of the picture. Efficient speakers might be a compelling selection criteria. Does power consumption limit our selection of head units?
• Power converters. Whats available, whats best, selection criteria, and installation requirements (heat dissapation).
• Is any equipment available already set up for 6V+ power and is it any good?
• How many amps can you run through the aux. contact of your ignition switch before you are looking for a new switch.

It will be a while before I will be buying the trucks sound systems. They need new shoes first. So if the six volt issues don't get addressed in the current discussions I can always bring them up later before I go looking for a Craig tape deck and JC Whitney power converter.

 

A further complication you have is that the early Ford 6V systems are + ground. Since you are looking at adding a sound system, you must not be a restoration purist, so why not convert your truck to 12V - ground and save yourself a world of headaches? It's not difficult or expensive to do, and is reversable.

 

dmptrkr,

I can't answer all your ??s, but will try a few. Here goes:

1) I am aware of no current production aftermarket head units that are directly 6v or pos. ground equipped. Last time I checked, even Classic Auto Sound, the people who customize units for direct fits in old Corvettes, etc., don't do 6 volt either. They start with Kenwood or Pioneer units anyway, low end ones for the most part, and modify them. No offense to anyone who's got one; I just think they're not that close in appearance to factory, but cost a lot. As you say, it may be possible to run a converter; keep in mind it may very well cause noise problems like whine, buzz, hum, etc. You may be able to use filters.

2) It is somewhat possible to alter generators to produce more amperage, but can be expensive. Don't count on running external amps or powered subs.

3) External amps, at least decent ones, are triggered by a remote lead; in other words, they draw power directly from the battery or some type of power distribution block, and when you turn on/off the head unit, the amp is switched on/off automatically. The head unit is normally the only audio device powered off the ignition switch or a "switched" lead, so you're probably good, though I don't know just what the OE switch can handle. You certainly can run the head unit separately & avoid the switch altogether, naturally remembering to turn off the HU each and every time you get out of the truck, to avoid a dead battery.

I can give you some help in optimizing the sound quality of an original radio, be it 6 volt or 12 volt. However, for what it sounds like you might want, I'm with AX on this one-it would be better all the way around to convert to 12 volt, neg, ground. It would solve a lot of problems for you and open up choices.

Hope it helps, Mike

 

I might be talked into resistor ignition wires but unless they turn into a migraine my trucks are going to stay 6V +grnd. I think its cool to open up the hood for people and they see 6 volt pos. ground printed on the voltage regulator. The cool truck experience would be further enhanced if I have a nice sound system that can be heard but not seen. I'm not looking for a butt kicking system but something that is practical for my application. Low power consumption is a big concern for me. It comes to mind that my truck is a pretty rough ride and that might be a selection criteria as well. My experience with audio equipment has been that it usually developes mechanical issues rather than electronic ones. I can find out about power converters with some forum and web searches. Thats a good point you raised, Homespun, about the possibility of those things making noise.

So I'll be reading the audio threads with these things in mind. Looking forward to it as a learning experience. Back about when I was in college I thought I was up to date on this stuff but a lot of things have change since then. Like my slide rule.

 

Anyone else ever put in overhead consoles ref radio/speaker locations?

 

Well you could add a hidden 12V battery like an optima deep discharge to power the sound system and recharge it when you get home. If you don't go crazy with high power amps it should power a system for a good number of hours. A HU with a decent built in amp and a small sub and amp will sound very good without needing extra amps.

 

Pgayda, my stereo unit is mounted with the Rod Doors overhead console kit. John

 

Craig, given the 6v+gnd system:

I like Ax's idea. The additional weight certainly won't kill anything & there's enough space. If you use the trucks on a regular basis, it would be relatively simple to install a single wire alternator to charge the battery. Assuming you don't want it underhood, one possibility is the 'ol driveshaft method. No, it doesn't charge @ rest...but for this application it should do fine. You have to consider driveshaft speed, since some 1-wire units won't begin charging until they reach a certain speed, or at least won't "self-excite". Also, clearance/longevity might be an issue if you actually use these trucks under field conditions. Still, I like it! I like it!

 

Craig

You got just about everything working against you. Weak charging system at the wrong voltage, metal resonating interior and a rough ride so the CD player will skip a lot. Unless you tell us you are deaf too, I don't think your audio challenge can get any worse here. If you are determined to stay 6V. I would recommend a Ford radio. Say one used in the 50s trucks perhaps.

And it took me several hours to realize why you Craig is partial to Craig audio

I remember the old Craig underdash 6W 8 tracks players and Powerplay wedge speakers you just threw up in the rear deck or your ride. Those were great.

 

My brother has one of the 8 track underdash units in his 68 Camaro! It's a convertible so the player get a lot of gawks at shows. It still works and he has a number of tapes for it.

 

Dewayne, Here's what I did with my 86 Mustang GT Convertible. I know; how the heck can you hear anything over the wind noise of a crappy chassis like an 86 Mustang Convertible? Why bother? Nonetheless -

Three good quality tweeter/mid range in the dash. Left speaker in the left side, left speaker wired in reverse on the right side, right speaker in the middle. Woofers in the door panels wired mono. I didn't have a separate crossover, As I recall, my CD deck had a built in crossover.

Use multi-strand speaker wire. The tweeter/midrange wires shouldn't be too big or you'll lose some of the high-end. The woofer wires need to be pretty good sized to carry the load. I used zip cord for the woofers. Be careful where the wires go so they don't pick up blower motor or other electrical noise.

I put good carpet/pad in the floor of the Mustang to try to help the road noise. The floor already had some heat/noise padding from the factory. But as I said, wind noise was the problem. Which brings up the point of weatherstripping the doors and sealing the wing windows on a Ford truck.

You'll want to move those glasspack mufflers to the back, behind the axle.

If you're running dual exhaust, use different mufflers on the left and right side to avoid the drone. Use a balance tube between the exhaust pipes. Use iron exhaust manifolds.

Use a stock 70's air filter assembly with the snorkle to reduce the air noise of the carb.

Noise damping padding on the firewall, floor, inside the doors. Nice carpet on the floor. Upholstery in the interior helps sound quaity; headliner and door panels.

If you've got a three speed or an automatic, use a column shift to avoid the hole in the floor that lets road noise in.

If you have to use a floor shift for your four or five speed, try to seal the hole from below and from above like they do in modern chassis. I had a Chevy S10 that had a gasket around the shifter that sealed up to the floor if you got the transmission installed right.

Mind you, I haven't done much of this to my truck (yet) but I think this will give a pretty good starting point.

 

Follow-up to the Audio Installation thread and the issue of noise control - quiet exhaust systems and high flow iron exhaust manifolds for Ford V8s (quieter than headers);

Application - suggestion.

302/351W - 69-70 351W exhaust manifolds.

351C 351M/400 - 351C exhaust manifolds.

Y-blocks - 312 passenger side exhaust manifold, HD truck rams-horn on the driver side. I've heard of using the passenger side exhaust manifold on the driver side and then running the pipe down from the front of the engine. I'll have to try manifold on my engine when it goes in, but it seems like the generator bracket places the generator right in the path.

I don't know jack about big blocks (FE, 385 series). Anybody got ideas for high flow iron exhaust manifolds for the 390's and 460's that will fit into early trucks?

I worked with a guy to fit a 460 into a 70 F100 and it was a chore to get the stock iron exhaust to work, but he did it. Oddly, it was the passenger side that was the problem. The engine was from a Lincoln Town Car.