Hello,

I have been doing some body work on my '91 Explorer recently and have been learning as I go along. It's an older vehicle and so making mistakes as I learn is not a problem (and I make many!).

I would like to poll you folks on a couple things as I have been getting conflicting information from the sales folks when it comes to sheet metal.

1. What is best for body work; cold-rolled steel or hot-rolled steel? (and what is the difference??)

2. Do you need to use satin coated steel or is bare steel OK (if it is treated and primed on the vehicle).

3. What gauge do people prefer when doing patches? I have used 18 through 24 guage trying to balance strength with workability.

Any comments would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Gil

 

The patch panels that I have made I use the same guage sheetmetal that was orginally used. On my 82 F100 I have found that most of the boddy panels use either 18 or 20 guage.

 

<cr>
Heating steel changes the internal structure. Cold rolling is a process that forms the steel into shape without adding heat. It is more expensive than hot rolled and there is no reason for you to buy cold rolled steel.

I don't know what you are referring to as 'stain' but bare steel is just fine. Just make sure you paint it well after you do your work.

 

Thanks for your input.

The first place I bought steel was an auto "surplus" shop. (auto parts, lubricants, tools etc). Not specializing in auto body repair they had limited selection but carried 24" x 48" cold rolled steel (22 guage) that was recommended for "other" welding projects and 24" x 48" satin coated sheets (not "stain") that were recommended for body repair (also 22 guage). The cold rolled was about $20.00 and the satin coat $25.00.

The next time I did a patch (rebuilt quarter panel on gas tank side!) I went to a steel shop and the guy said I needed 18 guage hot rolled steel. It was obviously very strong but more time consuming to shape and form. A 24" x 48" piece cost about $35.00.

From what you have indicated (both of you) I think I'll stay with the 18 guage (maybe 20) hot rolled steel. The metal shop is a great place to buy steel as they let me pick through their scraps if I need small pieces!

Also...

After patching a large panel do you fellas rust proof or treat the inside? The cause of the problem around the gas cap (common in early Explorers) comes from water dripping down from the window and pooling on a cross-member on the inside of the panel. I would hate for my work to rust from the inside out in a couple of months.

Thanks again,

Gil

 

I would drill out that cross member to allow the water to drain off. Surface rust is not a real problm but standing waer causes the rust the really dig in.
If you can, remove the source of the rust formation before finishing off the patch because just treating the metal is not the answer.

 

<cr>
Rosati is 100% correct. You need to treat the cause of the rust, as well as the rust.

Yes, without a doubt, you should paint the backside of bare steel.

 

Fellas,

Thanks for the advice.

I did build in some drainage conduits (a.k.a. holes) to allow for water run-off on the cross member and around the gas cap.

All I need to do is get this vehicle through the winter. I intend to buy a newer Explorer (1994) to rebuild for the summer and I'll use my 91 for parts.

It is great to use the 91 to gain the experience in body and mechanical work. You should see the grevious errors I have made but then again I did learn a heck of a lot! I bought a Lincoln MIG welder and learned to use that piece of equipment. I'm learning to do plastic filler work, metal work and fibreglass work. I had bought a decent compressor that I used for mechanical support work but also put my hand to painting (a real skill that I have yet to master!).

When I'm ready for the new truck I need to do a complete body and paint as well as drill out drainage in doors, rocker panels etc and treat the entire truck to see if we can get more life out of her. Unfortunately, although mechanically A-1, the 91 body is too far gone. I also need new A/C compressor and figure I'll purchase a 94 with a functioning compressor instead of buying a compressor for the 91 and having to convert from R12 to R134.

When I get the new rig I'll be back for more advice!

Thanks,

Gil