Engine Replacement
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Engine Replacement
Has any one replaced and engine in A 98 F150 4.6 4X4 regular cab shortbox stepside. Ive been told I have to lift the cab off the frame in order to be able to lift it out.Do i have to? If so any tips. I have done many many engine swaps but never heard of this. I have the new engine sitting on the floor just waiting for mine to blow its had a bottom end knock for the last 20000 km
Thanks
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,418
Likes: 0
From: SpringHill,Fl
Flat rate tech .com has an excellent how to with pics
http://flatratetech.com/images/nav_how_to.htm
Mark
_______________________________________
01 F150 S-Cab Flareside XLT 4x2 5.4L Auto
Deep Wedgewood Metallic and Silver L/S 3.55
Fabtech Lift 285/75/R16 DominatorSport A/T's
http://flatratetech.com/images/nav_how_to.htm
Mark
_______________________________________
01 F150 S-Cab Flareside XLT 4x2 5.4L Auto
Deep Wedgewood Metallic and Silver L/S 3.55
Fabtech Lift 285/75/R16 DominatorSport A/T's
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
Hi Brad and welcome to the forum 
If you don't have a 2 post hoist to lift the body with the engine will come out without it.
The bellhousing bolts, wiring at the back of the engine etc is easier to get at though if you at least raise the body up a bit. To do that you can undo all the cab mounts and then carefully jack the front up, under the rad support.
Remove the intake manifold to give you more clearance.
You don't have to open up the a/c. The compressor will unbolt from the engine and you can tie it out of the way. The top bolt has to go in and out with the compressor. It's too long to remove otherwise.
Removing the inner fender liners only takes a few minutes and it makes things easier to get to.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask and someone here can probably answer them.
If you don't have a 2 post hoist to lift the body with the engine will come out without it.
The bellhousing bolts, wiring at the back of the engine etc is easier to get at though if you at least raise the body up a bit. To do that you can undo all the cab mounts and then carefully jack the front up, under the rad support.
Remove the intake manifold to give you more clearance.
You don't have to open up the a/c. The compressor will unbolt from the engine and you can tie it out of the way. The top bolt has to go in and out with the compressor. It's too long to remove otherwise.
Removing the inner fender liners only takes a few minutes and it makes things easier to get to.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask and someone here can probably answer them.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
I definately will take some pics. Im not going to rush into it quite yet. At least i know what im up against. My 4.6 still banging away no oil burning good oil pressure who knows how long it will last. It would be great if will last the winter Ill have some holidays and I can take the truck of the road for a few days or longer.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
As far as your bottom end knock,I had a Jeep Cherokee with a knock right when you gas it and then it would go away.It turned out to be a loose flex plate(flywheel for auto trans).After tightening the bolts,the knock was gone.Just wondering if you had the same problem before you write off that motor you have.Good luck on the swap.
