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I found a post on the oil & lubrication forum that concerns me. Someone called bigdaddyII has had the same problem that we have, and has recently switched to Motorcraft 5w20. I too recently made this same switch. I alway's ran Mobil 5w30 synthetic blend. I'm gonna try going back to the 30 weight tomorrow before I drop the oil pan and replace the bearings.
Thomas,
Dead serious here - I have been wondering if the problem could be related to the 5W20 you now run.
I know the Motorcraft 5W20 is a great oil (I spend a good bit of time in the oil and lube forum.) but, I STILL have more confidence in the 10w30. Havoline and Chevron are two readily available conventional oils whose 10w30 weights show very good virgin numbers (great TBN, etc) and have proven (thru several UOA's) to be outstanding performers in my engine, using 5,000 mile drain intervals.
I think it would be money well spent to give one a try and see if that mitigates the problem.
Be sure to let us know.
I'm already on it. I had my wife bring home some 5w30, which I ran from day one, until recently. The noise coming in at a slow warm idle, with me standing there was what got me to thinking. I'll change it in the a.m. before I start it up and see how it goes.You'll definitely be hearing from me.BTW, don't ever hesitate to give a suggestion, even if your not sure, because when I come to this forum, I've usually already drawn a blank, and I'll take any offers. Hey, even if it hurts my feelings, I'm a big boy, I can take it. I saw a lot of our posts in the oil and lube forum, let me know about the K&N filter thing,I'm very curious.
Well meh129, the oil didn't solve the problem. I'm convinced it's a lifter, and if that's the case, I'm gonna run it til it fails. I just hope I'm not in the middle of nowhere when it does, 'cause I go there quite often. The intermittent nature makes me believe it's not a rod bearing, 'cause that would knock no matter what. The piston would quieten after reaching operating temperature because of thermal expansion. The lifter could be on it's last leg, and if it goes it's gonna take at least one lobe of the camshaft with it. That' s the best excusr I can think of to get a stage I "torque" cam, and roller lifter's to go with it. Then I don't have to justify it, 'cause it will be needed.Well, only we will know that the "upgrade" is stretching it a little, but we won't tell,....right?
Well doesnt it fiqure, it was 70' today and when I went to see the engine guys...guess what, not a pink, tap or anything. The truck sounds great. I just dont get it...what could the cold make the engine act like that? The engine guys think the valves just needed breaking in. I still not convinced. meh
That's not it, I have 147,000 miles on mine, if it's not broken in, it never will be. Based on my limited experience, the piston(either slap, or wrist pin) or a lifter that is eithe gummed up, or just about to fail. I don't think mine is gummed up, because when I pulled my valve cover, it was clean enough to eat out of, if you don't mind a little 30 weight. I know deposits can build up elsewhere while staying clean up top. I've been a fanatic about oil changes and maintenance. I have my hood up at least once a week checking fluid levels and checking for leaks and other problems.
Well, I had typed an elaborate response, but the server ate it, so here is the short version:
Try installing/replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets. All your symptoms are indicitive of an exhaust leak and exhaust-valve noise. Exact symptoms fellas. Otherwise you stand the chance of burning your valves and spending big-bucks to replace them.
Figure it as an inexpensive ($10.00) diagnostic tool. Less than another oilchange.
Nope, Iknow an exhaust leak when I hear it. This is an internal engine noise, rises and falls with rpm, and disappears when warm, mostly anyway. It's louder down low (oil pan, block area). It's not a tick associated with a leak, I've heard that before.It's a lower frequency, almost as if you were inside the engine w/ a hammer tapping on the block.
Yeah tell me about it. It's been unusually warm here this week,guess what? no noise. It's only related to below freezing temps. I'm not gonna sweat it,it runs great, just gonna let it ride.
My 88 Nissan truck (2.4L) did the same thing when it was freezing cold, low knock that went away after fully warmed up. Never leaked or burned a drop of oil between changes (5000 miles). I sold the truck with 243,000 miles on her, and she probably had another 200,000 left in her!
I have got one in the shop right now with the noise your saying and we are installing a reman, dont know what the failure is had another guy tear the engine down, will have to try and find him. Had the oil pan off and the pan had a nice silver coating on the oil pan.
I had the same problem but mine made a knocking sound when accelerating up hills at low rpm,also at idle but not as bad.I replaced motor and transmission because transmission was slipping bad.When i tore the engine down i found coolant laying on top of the pistons,and both head gaskets were leaking,I dont really know what went wrong causing this. When i started the reman engine for the first time it had a knocking sound i seen the dipstick vibrating so i cut the engine off removed it and it was badly bent.I had to buy another dipstick assembly.I guess the tube was hitting against something .
On and on and on.It was cool, (42deg) this morning, usually enough to make it knock, no noise, totally silent. The only comon factor is the temperature. No oil consumption, oil is normal at 5k when I change it(whatever normal is) . I may have a UOA done, and see if there are any indicators of trouble. There are no other symptoms other than noise when cold, that goes away when warmed up. It really is staarting to sound like piston slap or something. I'm just gonna save my pennies and run it til it drops. Then I'm gonna go for a high performance short block from RPM Mustangs w/a cam, and maybe even the street heads on the side. I figure I'll need at least 3k for that little mod.