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But it's still the fact that how many replacement parts can you buy for a D44 for the minimum 1K it'll cost to get a D60, PLUS the rebuild. That's ALOT of axles shafts and ball joints.
Don't forget to factor in the extraction costs and "HA!" factor when your busted axle leaves you stranded, plus time down while you're fixing it. I'd rather pay a little more for an axle that I'll never have to mess with than save a few dollars and dick with it after each run.
Btw, maybe he'll say something here and maybe not but Dan (Djoffroad) is running a Dana 44. Pretty much everyone here is familiar with what happened to his truck and most of you have seen the video. Below is a direct quote from Dan a while back:
Originally Posted by Djoffroad
I have been told that the D44 steering knuckle setup is not as stout as the D60 kingpins, but I don't think it's that big of concern. Although, I did break a steering knuckle one day that resulted in a roll over.
Minor details but a weak axle is what caused this (the video is great!). Now I don't know about you but when I ran the calculations on my abacus it appears that repairing a rolled over truck costs more than a D60.
The thing is, its way beyond just axle strength. Its the housing, tube, KNUCKLES, u-joints, etc. etc. Sure, you can put in moly shafts, flanges, and ctm joints but your still gonna be waxing your knuckles. I can put in moly axles in my D60 and they will be stronger than a rockwell shaft...but just about everything else on my D60 will nuke far before the rest of the components of the deuce.5. Especially the knuckles. So, I always tell people to just save your pennies and put in the D60. You'll end up ahead of the game.
Then by your rationale, my friend, shouldn't you have just gone with the rockies in the first place?
You're Bronco notwithstanding you can't even buy a windshield for these trucks for $99. Not to speak of fixing the damage to the roof, hood, replacing the granaded knuckle, paint, etc.
I can't speak for Pro on the Rockwells but I can tell you the only reason I decided not to run them was the 6.72 gear ratio. It's fine if you're either running 50+ inch tires or if you never drive your truck on the highway. I don't plan to trailer my truck anytime soon so until they come up with a different gearset for Rockies the D60 has to do. If they DO develop some gearing options I'll be purchasing a set soon.
The only thing that would leave me stranded by breaking on a D44 would be the "C" itself or the arm from the tierod to the knuckle. If I break one of those THEN I'll look into going D60.
As for rolling my truck, if it ever gets totaled I'm stripping the driveline, selling it for scrap, and buying a ranger. So no repair costs there and I can find $200 4x2 rangers all day long.
As for only going 35-37's, that's what I'm doing unless I can afford a front D60. If my truck was a one ton or HD 3/4 there's no way I'd be saying only 35's
Raf hasn't busted anything on that D44 HD yet! He hasn't put a D60 in there yet. That's in his plans. D60 prices are nuts, and who is going to do a D60 swap and leave it open and stock?
As far as housing strength, that is why I suggested trussing it. I think a 44 would be fine with upgrades, and as long as you aren't too stupid with the right pedal The way I drive, a stock 44 would last with 44" tires, no problem. But considering where I drive, I don't "need" 44s -- but I sure do want them!
Then by your rationale, my friend, shouldn't you have just gone with the rockies in the first place?
Actually, no. My intention with the '73 was to build a killer mud truck that I could also drive on the streets/highway to terrorize people. For the above mentioned reasons rockwells wouldn't have been the best choice for this. A beefed one-ton+ drivetrain was. When I build a dedicated off-road only rig it will have rockwells and ag tires.
Also, like I mentioned about the d44, and Ivan also mentioned, you can beef your shafts and truss your tubes all you want, but you will still have the knuckles as a significantly weak area.
Also, like I mentioned about the d44, and Ivan also mentioned, you can beef your shafts and truss your tubes all you want, but you will still have the knuckles as a significantly weak area.
This is true if you are rock crawling, dune jumpimg, tough truck racing, but read the stated intent, street, and some mud, and as we discussed in another thread mud isn't as hard on axles as other types of wheelin. My thoughts on the whole thing are why spend the money for a D60, and get it geared, and worked over and have a pile of money into, when you have the 44, run it stock for awhile if you start breaking things then upgrade but most people will find (please read MOST) that the little wheelin they do in mud won't hurt the D44 front ends.
What you say is true, monster, but I'm still referring to the first post in this thread which is:
Originally Posted by kevinupchurch
does anyone know about the chrome moly upgrade for the dana44 from what ive read it says it will make it as strong as the dana60 and it would be cheaper if that is true.just woundering if thats true or not.
Just re-affirming why the D60 is stronger than the D44, even after some upgrades.
just put the D60 knuckles on the 44 like that artical posted earlier showed. i don't like defending D44's really because i want a d60 under my truck. but at the moment i can't afford that soi have to upgrade anything i break and go easy on my truck and learn it's limits. i only busted one u-joint and the axles on that side on my d44 ond thats only because it was after i bought the truck and the joints were very old and toasted!
I don't get it. This is like marrying an ugly chic because you can give her an extreme makeover or marrying a fine one who doesn't need $10,000 in plastic surgery to take the bag off her head. In the end even the best surgery is only gonna have her looking like Michael Jackson and you don't want that do you? Get the fine chic and for the small price of a lip injection you can have your own supermodel without everyone else in the trailer park getting jealous because you won the makeover.
In the context of running 35-38" tires, its hard to beat the d44 in the above article in regards to ground clearance. With larger tires, the diff clearance is less of an issue. First, D44 HD tubes are thicker than standard ones. The D60 "c" and knuckles solves that problem since the new D44 ARB runs 35 spline Dana 60 axles. For a good all around rig or daily driven rig, this is a pretty good option. For a Monster Truck or Mud Buggie it probably isn't. But think about what Raf could do with his rig just by using this new ARB and switching to the D60 outers. This is not the typical 44 and noone said put it under an F250 or F350.
Edit: To answer Ivan, I like to trim weight when possible because that improves the power to weight ratio.