I have a 1970 F-100 2WD that needs new brakes all the way around. Apparently it sat for 10+ years before I bought it and every has gone to the big crapper in the sky. Midas gave me a quote of $741.76 (FRR wheel bearing replaced, not all) with the drums machined, and $681.76 without. I do not think the drums need to be machined.

Here is a list of what all it needs and prices from LMC:
* Shoes
FR - $19.95
R - $19.95
* Wheel cylinders
FRR - $24.95
FRL - $24.95
RR - $24.95
RL - $24.95
* Hardware (springs, etc.)
FR - $12.95
R - $12.95
* Self-adjuster kit
FRR - $14.95
FRL - $14.95
RR - $14.95
RL - $14.95
* All wheel bearings
INNER
FRR - $10.95
FRL - $10.95
OUTTER
FRR - $9.95
FRL - $9.95
REAR
Rx2
- $26.95 (39/64" outter dia. x 1-17/32" inner dia.)
- $79.95 (39/64" outter dia x 1-5/8" inner dia)
- $44.95 (35/32" outter dia x 1-9/16" inner dia)

[ FR = front, R = rear, FRR = front right, FRL = front left, RR = rear right, RL = rear left | right = passenger, left = driver ]

Total comes to $268, not including rear wheel bearings (don't know which ones I need). Some things I cannot do and must be done by a professional (like press rear bearings onto axles).

Yea, it needs a lot. I don't have $700 to spend and still have christmas. So, I am exploring my options. I really don't want to do the work myself because I am inexperienced with drum brake systems. What about switching to disc brakes? Could I find a junker truck with good brakes and switch all the parts over?

Any comments or help is welcome!

Evan
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its pretty easy to work on drum brakes. if you are going to buy all the new springs and cylinder and stuff, just pull off the drum and u can see all the springs and cylinder, and replace one at a time matching the old up to the new, each spring looks different. and replace the cylinder in the same position as the old. do the same with the pads. and to adjust them theres a star nut on that you can spin to adjust the pads out or in so they just rub the inside of the drum without the brakes applied.

i just noticed u said you looked at buying the self adjuster kit, that makes it even easier, you go in reverse and hit the brakes and it will adjust them out

Jason

 

I would still be wary on a couple things. Like how would I thoroughly flush the entire system? Just open up bleeder valves and pump brake pedal? And how do I remove the rear axles to get the bearing pressed on? Is it just the bearings I need to replace, or do I need the washers and things like that?

I'm just afraid that I'm going to get so far into the job and get stuck somewhere. Either that or forget to do something or not do something properly and completely mess up my brakes. Another problem is both rear bleeder valves are stripped (not even vice grips will grip).

You see where I'm going with this? I cannot afford to have them done at a shop like Midas, so I guess I'll have to do it myself.

 

I would definitely plan on getting the drums turned; after sitting for 10+ years, they are probably pretty rusty on the inside.

Steve