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OK. Today I changed out all of the battery cables, put new negative cables from the battery to the frame, and then on to the starter. I also cleaned up all grounds from the engine to the frame and to be safe added another cable. I now know the engine and frame are grounded, problem is, I still have the problem.
The truck starts and runs fine, cranks rightover on startup so I know the battery is charged. However when I turn on the headlights the voltage drops some, then I turn on the heater and it drops to about 9 volts, finally if I turn on the windshield wipers the run fine for a little bit and the finally start dragging until they stop. If I am driving everything seems fine, but when I come to a stop the headlights get dim and the voltage drops. If i rev up the engine with the clutch in, it doesn't help. I have to be moving in order for the voltage to come back up and the headlight get bright again.
I would think it was the alternator, however I had it tested at Autozone and it checked out fine. If anyone has any other suggestions I would greatly apreciate the help.
Maybe the person didn't test your charging system correctly? The alternator should be able to keep up output with all accessories on (lights, radio, heater, a/c) These alternators are rated at 65 amps - the truck would still run with as little as 3-10 amps, but it would give strange symptoms like the ones you describe. The three wire alternator connectors on this model are also notorious for failure - the contact degrades where it plugs into the alternator, and it can overheat (to the point of causing a fire). It's something else to check. If you pull the connector out, even once, have a new one on hand to replace it. The auto parts stores usually carry that connector because it's a known problem. You have to cut and crimp to install it.
When he tested it he put an ammeter on the pos. battery cable and ran the engine up to 2000 rpm. He then said the output was 55 amps and that the book states that the minimum is 52 amps. Does this sound right?
I tested the alternator today according to my Haynes manual. I had 12.5 volts at the battery with the engine off, 14.5 volts with no load and at 1500 RPM, and 14.5 volts at 2000 RPM with heater on high and headlight on high beam. The bood says that this is OK and it passes the test. Does anyone know where the wiring to the dash (fuse block) comes from. I guess I will just start tracing wires and see what happens.
I am still having this problem. Can anyone help? Changed the Alternator and plug today but that didn't fix it. The problem has changed a little over time and is intermittent. Sometimes it will charge just fine, other times it wont charge at all. But most of the time the problem has to do with the clutch. It actually doesn't seem to matter if the truck is moving or not. If I push in the clutch the truck stops charging, let it out and it charges. I removed the neutral safety switch today but left it plugged in, started the truck, then moved the safety switch and it did not cause the problem. But then if I pushed in on the clutch the problem occured again, I would think this should eleminate any direct electrical problem.
Could the flex in the dash be causing a wire to move somewhere and cause this problem? Thanks