429 main supports
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New User
Joined: Nov 2004
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429 main supports
New to the 429 owners club. Just purchased a '71 429 with the prospects of rebuilding it into something with some horsies. It's a K-code 2v from a Merc Marquis. I don't plan on making it a 1000 HP monster but I do want it fresh, strong, and reliable.
I assume it's a 2 bolt main, so my 1st question is this:
Is a main cap support recommended? Are there any dis-advantages to them? I have read both good and bad about the mains on these engines and don't know WHAT to believe.
Or would I be better off having it machined to accept 4 bolt caps?
I plan on putting a deep sump (8qt.) pan on it with integral scraper and a windage tray(all canton racing). Roller rockers, around a .514 cam, gear drive, dual plane intake, 750 dp Holley, underdrive pulleys, etc. Nothing massive as I want to be able to drive it on the street. I may be putting it through it's paces a couple times a week (cause thats how I am)...Just worried that the bottom end may fall off the sucker if I do....Any help would be appreciated. Please keep posts on topic of the MAINS....I don't need any engine building tips at this time....................Thanks in advance....
I assume it's a 2 bolt main, so my 1st question is this:
Is a main cap support recommended? Are there any dis-advantages to them? I have read both good and bad about the mains on these engines and don't know WHAT to believe.
Or would I be better off having it machined to accept 4 bolt caps?
I plan on putting a deep sump (8qt.) pan on it with integral scraper and a windage tray(all canton racing). Roller rockers, around a .514 cam, gear drive, dual plane intake, 750 dp Holley, underdrive pulleys, etc. Nothing massive as I want to be able to drive it on the street. I may be putting it through it's paces a couple times a week (cause thats how I am)...Just worried that the bottom end may fall off the sucker if I do....Any help would be appreciated. Please keep posts on topic of the MAINS....I don't need any engine building tips at this time....................Thanks in advance....
Elder User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 877
Likes: 2
From: Missouri
With the cam and carb your using the bottom end will be fine because it won't turn any high RPM. You don't really need to worry about supporting the mains until you get over 7,000RPMs.
Loose the gear drive! And use a GOOD chain.
Loose the gear drive! And use a GOOD chain.
Last edited by greenhighboy; Nov 29, 2004 at 10:16 AM.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
I decided to install ARP main studs on my bottom end to keep up with what ever cams I choose later on down the road. Doesn't cost anything extra in respects to machine work. Just a few dollars more then new bolts. The gear drive will sound cool at first but after a while you will wish you hadn't. You can still run a larger cam and still remain streetable if you haven't done the valve springs. I've got a .554I and .574E cam.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 4
From: West Union, OH USA
Just got my rebuilt '71 merc marquis 429 2bbl back from professional machining and assembly, sorry I don't know what bolts they used but they are new. .
My block is a 2 bolt main block. Not as radical as yours though. Good luck.
Cost about $1600. Used the car front sump oil pan.
My block is a 2 bolt main block. Not as radical as yours though. Good luck.
Cost about $1600. Used the car front sump oil pan.
Last edited by fordguy76; Nov 30, 2004 at 09:06 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
From: Kentucky
I agree with greenhighboy, I have been mud dragging for 8 years and use a 2 bolt main with ARP main bolts turning 6800-7100 rpm max, and have had no problems so far. I do rebuild every winter, but no breakage so far during season. Matter of fact, no engine problems outside of the distrbutor.
