buy it buy it buy it. its a steal for that price in any condition

 

Hey everybody,
I have an earlier post regarding the fact that I'm looking at buying a '76 F250 4X4 that I saw. I went and drove it this morning and I am concerned about several things. He wants $1000 for it and I'm not sure if I want to dive into this. I am looking for a good winter truck/hauler that I can drive several thousand miles a year when I need to. On the outside, its not bad...it was a awn mowing truck so it has its body damage, etc and rust. Its not horrible though. I got there and its running and idling just fine. Popped the hood and I got my first scare. The motor is DIRTY and it is smoking slightly from the headers. Though, it looks like the valve covers may be leaking a little and causing the oil to drip on the headers and smoke. It was also steaming/smoking from where the hose connects to the radiator. It was also about 30 degrees outside keep in mind. It definately needs some new valve cover seals and some carb work. It wasn't blowing blue smoke though. I get in and start to back the truck up..and the fan belt lets me know its not happy for a little. Sound went away and never came back. My other issue is the fact that the clutch grabs REALLY high. I'm worried that it needs some major work...or would an adjustment do the trick? I don't think it was slipping though. 4WD works like a champ, no problem with the snow and ice in the lot. This thing would be a beast in the bad weather. Drives smooth, steers straight but very loose and with some play. Doors were rattling and making noise while driving (hopefully they just weren't closed enough). Heater works good, no gas/exhaust smell inside. Needs some TLC badly. I'm still thinking about jumping on it and doing the valve covers and carb myself, but I was looking for a good deal that I didn't have to sink huge money in at the beginning. What is everyones advice? Also....can someone please decode the VIN for me? F26YLB65838. Thanks for reading and all of your help!

Nate

 

Also everybody. The seller told me its a factory 390. Is that true looking at the VIN number or is it a factory 360 like I'm thinking? Also on the test drive, the oil pressure was at the line at the bottom of the swwep beforte the L. Could this lack of pressure be caused by the valve cover leaks? OR is this a serious issue? Its a 160,000 mile engine without a rebuild. Thanks again!

 

Well, going by the VIN it's a 360. I know that FE's had low oil pressure, but I'm not a total expert on them, so go down to the FE forum and ask about it there. With loose steering you could try tightening the steering box. There is a stud looking screw with a nut on it. Loosen the nut and turn the screw clockwise. I've heard to only go 1/4 turn at a time. Just don't over do it.

 

y is 360 h is 390

 

talk em down to $700

 

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Thanks, Happy Trails

 

Sorry about the double post on the boards. Didn't mean to...just thought I would get more replies if it was titled a little differently. Anyway....I would love to talk him down to $700 but I already talked him down from $1800 to $1000, so I don't think thats possible. Can anyone else help me out with any suggestions or comments. I may just pick it up to see if I can get the carb cleaned and the motor running better and If I don't have the money to keep going, I will just sell it. Any help would be great!


Nate

 

No Problem

My opinion is to go to him with $900.00 Cash & tell him as hard as you tried, you couldn't find another $100.

For some engine's the core price is $500.00
I
You get it for Half of what he was asking (great deal IMO) & he gets rid of the truck because he had cash waved in front of him

 

Mineralstang,
Just dive in... buy it. It only matters so much what condition it's in, what you pay for it, or what it needs. You'll have plenty of time to analize it all when it's parked at your house. They're not makin' 'em anymore. All you can do is fix it all as fast and as best as you can, over time. Parts are readily available. Build it up the way you want it to be. It'll be worth it. I'm convinced the 73-79 Ford trucks can last a lifetime in good hands. Ready to get greasy?

 

I hope you see this before buying the truck.First of all with that kind of mileage you can count on rebuilding the engine fairly soon.Next is the fact that it belonged to a lawn service where the employees were driving it pretty hard,it would be like buying a rental car or taxi,THEY GET BEAT BECAUSE THE DRIVERS DON'T OWN THEM AND DON'T CARE.Did you check the cab mounts?frame?springs?Wiring for splices and micky mouse repairs?Did it not strike you that they had it started and running before you got there?Do you think maybe they had it warmed up so you would'nt find out how crappy it runs when cold?The 360 engine is a great workhorse but are known to need rebuilding after the 120,000 mile mark and some common problems that show up are rod's knocking and using oil,the carbs generally are shot and the list goes on.This is not to say that all 360's are the same but after owning 6 or 7 trucks with the 360/390 engines I have seen enough to know.Also these trucks are known to rust severly around the front cab mounts and floor boards causing inproper fender/door alignment and binding of the transmission linkage on the automatics.The rad support should also be checked as well as the inner fender wells near the hood hinges.NOW CHECK OUT EBAY ITEM 7937363720 AND COMPARE IT TO WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING AT.It ends within 24 hours so look quick.Goodluck!!

 

I would give him a conditional offer of $1000, based on a mechanics inspection. Give him half of the cash for a deposit. Keep the truck over night get the mechanic to list everything that is wrong or might be wrong. If the list is too long, give the guy his truck back. If the list is short on the bad stuff but long with potential worries, offer the guy $800. Consider it a risk premium. If the worst happens and you need to get rid of the truck, donate it, take the tax write off (which should be more than you paid). I did that when I purchased my 77f-250 4x4 460/C-6. It needed a flex plate or a rebuilt transmission & maybe a new crankshaft or a new balancer. Now that I have repaired the truck I know it was the cheaper of the problems, but hey I got the truck for $500 down from $1500.

 

Thanks Fredericks, I appreciate the comparison. The truck I'm looking at isn't as bad as that truck at all. That one has much more body rust and the interior is in a lot worse shape. Also, the undercarriage of that one is horrible compared to the one I'm looking at. The body on the one I'm looking at is a little more beat up with less rust. The undercarriage of the one I'm looking at is much better looking with no rust or red color at all to it. It also has new seat fabric, has the side mirrors, and the motor/engine compartment doesn't look as bad as that. I'll try to get a digital camera and take some pics to show everyone. I really value all of your opinions. Thank you. BTW...is the asking price of $850 realistic for that one? If it is...$1000 for the one I'm looking at seems pretty good. Thanks!

Nate

 

Does anyone have any more info? I'm really stuck right now and need some expert advice. I'm going to take some pics tommorrow.

 

Like Dennis said, just show up with 900 cash, and tell the guy you would like to drive the truck again. You might want to do a compression test on it?
Tell the guy you want to do a cold start up and drive on it. With as cold as its been lately....that could be fun. If you think it will get you thru the winter, and dont mind putting a few thousand into it next summer to make sure it will last you the next 15 years, you should buy it. I have an engine guy in Denver who would rebuild your 360 for around 2000 + -. You know everything that can go wrong with it, its just figuring out if you are willing to risk those potential problems for a great truck. I would buy it if i was you. Then plan on investing some money in it next summer when you can drive the stang again. Make sure he has a title before offering any firm amount of money too. and make sure its clear, and in his name so that wont be a hassle for you. If theres any way you can get Colorado Farm Plates on your truck, that would exempt you from the emission testing. Also, 1981 and older vehicles can be tested at Independant testers They just do the test in this link for 1981 and older vehicles in Colorado 2 Speed Idle Test.
Im exempt from emissions where I live, theres a few Counties i know are exempt in Colorado.


--John