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so i should bolt the doors on and mount the cab to the frame than fix the cab. i thought it would be easy to do the work with out the frame under it. RT
RT
It may not be possible to have the doors on throughout the whole project, but they ought to be handy at least so you can try them on as you go. Start the project by taking a few moments to install and attempt adjustment. You may find out the door opening is off already, and how little you can do with the factory hinge adjustments. You'll possibly have a chance to put it back during your project if the opening is tweaked a little. If by some miracle everything is good now, brace her up while she is.
As AX has mentioned, these trucks weren't terrrible consistent when new. I wasn't around to experience one, but a tape measure of used doors and other body panels proves it out. What we are telling you is a pain and will seem to slow you down initially. But it really won't in the end. The cab has the potential to move in 15 directions when the floor and rockers are missing.
You may not be a stickler for precision door gaps, but a door that wipes the paint off the cowl or cab is pure grief to address later.
no i have not been to that forum. I want to get the cab started. i have the motor and trans mounted the brakes complete. just want to add the cab so i can kinda drive it around. I will have to say they built these trucks heavy back in the day. Im also building a new house im kinda in a hurry to get the big pieces together on the frame so its not a pain to move latter. Its tuff to GC a new house and work on it while i build this truck. Plus in my new house i will have a much larger garage with lift installed( nice to add the cost of a much needed shop to the build price) I rather pay for it over the yrs than up front now. I have enuff parts to do all the work just need a little help and guidance from friends and i mean all of you here at FTE Thanks again RT
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