I recently bought a 65 F 100. Its in real good condition,and its been sitting for awhile ,I cant get it started. Any one have any suggestions as to what I need to check ,etc.
thanks

 

Bill, First of all we don't know what you have tried already or for how long.

My recomendation for reviving an old horse.

Pull the gas line from the pump to the tank and let it be draining.

Pull all of the spark plugs and put a couple-three spoons full of motor oil in each cylinder through the holes. Changing the oil is not a bad idea either. With all of the plugs out get a strong battery hooked up and spin the engine until the oil pressure comes up on the dash gauge.

Clean the spark plugs if needed (lightly) and replace them and wires, attach a rubber gas hose to the fuel pump and to a small mouth jug (like an antifreeze) (your new gas tank) that has gas in it. A lawn mower gas container would be good.

Caution Make sure the gallon of gas is secure and will not get turned over. Use only a pop style bottle with a small opening as your second bottle. Put a rag or other in the top of the large bottle if it makes you feel better. You are dong a dangerous thing here but should be done safely if precautions are taken. IMHO

Fill a 16 or 20 oz. pop bottle maybe half full, with new gas and pour roughly 3-4 table spoons of gas directly into the carb. With both gas containers secure try starting the engine. If the engine was running when parked, you usually will have a high percentage of the engine firing. Some times you may need to pour more gas into the carb until it settles down. That is the reason for using a small mouth, should you have to move quickly you shouldn't spill gas. Sometimes you might get a backfire and will react quickly. You want your gas to stay in the bottle and not get all over things or your self. It is not a bad idea to place the bottle on someting stable a couple steps away. Having a bud helping is also a good idea.

Hope this helps a little.

DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID


John

 

Welcome. Hope you find FTE as helpful as i have.

Purchased couple of handy tools from discount tool supplier i found handy for working under the hood. Remote starter button that connects to battery and starter relay, and inline spark plug tester.

Probably get number of suggestions so thought would add my $ 02. Guess starts with basics, fuel and electrical. Move throddle lever and see if getting fuel into carburator. If not, suggest disconnect inlet side of fuel pump and see if getting any fuel. Also, if truck has been setting for extended period of time you will want to look at condition of fuel. Then work back to tank. May have lost its prime, in that case, forcing air into fuel filler neck may get fuel to flow. Once fuel issue resolved, then remove #1 ign. plug wire. If do not have the inline spark tested, hold end of ign. wire approx. 1/8" form block to determine if getting a spark. If not, check condition of points, cap, rotor, and condensor. If not sure position of distributor, with ignition off; remove spark plug, place finger on spark plug hole and as you rotate the engine stop when compression forces finger out of plug hold. Check position of rotor should be pointed to #1 cylinger on cap. At this point, start engine and adjust the timing.

Have two 65's and find this process tends to work for me.

good luck,
dave

 

I agree Welcome to FTE and to our world.

I do what these guys above do with a few twists. Instead of plain motor oil in the spark plug holes Iuse either 2 stroke motor oil or Marvel Mystery Oil since niether leave as much residue & contamenation to foul stuff up when they burn off.

I also use a Plews, or similar type trigger pumped oil can to put fuel directly into the float bowl of the carburetors by squirting it down the vent tube until it's filled. When float chamber is full, carb should squirt gasoline if accelerator linkage is pulled. I prefer this method because if engine sneezes of backfires, burning gasoline doesn't shoot up out of the carburetor body like a volcano spraying fire all over the place.

I also add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase oil before I crank up to reach oil pressure in the system. Then I block radiator with cardboard so when it fires up I can send temperature way up high & do it fast so it gets past norm op temp range, BUT do not let it boil over! remove the cardboard before it boils over. All you want it to do it get "HOT" quickly, not over heat.

If the engine runs well, sounds good, and when I'm certain engine is worth running/ saving, I let it run for 10 minutes or so, then shut it down & do a full engine service & tune up. If the engine is good, I might add an engine preserving additive such as STP or Slick 50 or Motor Honey for my first few thousand miles of operation.

So my method is pretty much same as everybody elses' method is. I agree totally with John JOWilker that SAFETY is Most Important. Nobody knows what an ol' dormant engine will do until they try to run it and find out. Splashing burning gasoline around is NOT AN OPTION in my shop! It's the fastest way I know th find my exit door. . . .

Good Luck, again Welcome to FTE, and enjoy your Slick 60s FoMoCo truck!

FBp

 

And there is a problem with this?????...



Welcome aboard Bill!
--Mike

 

Mine neither, if I had one, It's an outside job only.

John